Electrical Help Please
Alternator looks like a "revised squareback". As long as it has a matching regulator - and it looks like it may, that is probably about as good as it gets without switching to a much newer design. Whether, at slow idle, it can recharge the battery at the same time as running the fans - that i don't know. For that you will need a real test.
It is possible that the alternator would still work, but more weakly, with one leg of the field out of commission. So far nothing posted makes me think thats the situation. it seems to have no trouble producing power after start up. I'm assuming that was at slow idle.
What's a real alternator test look like?
It shows maximum current the alternator can produce stepping up from the slowest rpm until it maxes out.
Or if you have the factory specs for that alternator (I don't) test for maximum current output at the spoecified test rpm (usually 1250 rpm).
Here's a test sheet that came with a revised squareback (Lester number 7509)
and here's one Dana posted for a regular square back (although lester 7007 can be a roundback so not sure if the two got mixed up in testing)
The main point here is the alternator's capacity to create power increases from nothing at its turn on rpm.
Knowing the alternator rpm (pulley ratio) one can compare the output an alternator is capable of to the maximum loads expected while idling.
If it can't , and you want to stick with the electric fans, then a Denso is probably the way to go.
Butthat's skipping way ahead. We don't know that's why the battery is loosing charge.
Solve that first.
Longer discussion here about graphs
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/reading-alternator-output-graph.515918/#post-1973882818
Alternator looks like a "revised squareback". As long as it has a matching regulator - and it looks like it may, that is probably about as good as it gets without switching to a much newer design. Whether, at slow idle, it can recharge the battery at the same time as running the fans - that i don't know. For that you will need a real test.
It is possible that the alternator would still work, but more weakly, with one leg of the field out of commission. So far nothing posted makes me think thats the situation. it seems to have no trouble producing power after start up. I'm assuming that was at slow idle.
What's a real alternator test look like?
It shows maximum current the alternator can produce stepping up from the slowest rpm until it maxes out.
Or if you have the factory specs for that alternator (I don't) test for maximum current output at the spoecified test rpm (usually 1250 rpm).
Here's a test sheet that came with a revised squareback (Lester number 7509)
and here's one Dana posted for a regular square back (although lester 7007 can be a roundback so not sure if the two got mixed up in testing)
The main point here is the alternator's capacity to create power increases from nothing at its turn on rpm.
Knowing the alternator rpm (pulley ratio) one can compare the output an alternator is capable of to the maximum loads expected while idling.
If it can't , and you want to stick with the electric fans, then a Denso is probably the way to go.
Butthat's skipping way ahead. We don't know that's why the battery is loosing charge.
Solve that first.
Longer discussion here about graphs
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/reading-alternator-output-graph.515918/#post-1973882818