Shorty Headers

If engine access is you're concern, what's to access down the side of the block below the ports, with shorties winding back and forth you can't even see the side of the block.
People act like you take headers off every week.
I raced for years, took heads off over the fender, loose headers, long or short once undone move back and forth a few inches to access the head bolts, other than that, what access do you think you need.
Fitment to torsion bar is usually at the collector, if it's close and needs a tweek, I use a ratchet strap around the trans or T-bar, being carefull not to trap cooler lines etc, then cinch it up till the header bends enuff for the minor clearance. More clearance needed, I have stuck a fence-post up the collector, then a nudge one way or other, (don't knock the vehicle off the lift). I have also put a ratchet strap around that fence-post and the leaf spring, and sucked it over. Another instance on a bb Chally, I put the header in a vice and "draw filed" the head flange to make the header leave the head at a different angle for clearance on something. (That header was fucked from factory)
You don't have to Change the angle at the head much, go get a 3/16 clearance down by steering .
I haven't had to ding a header in years since I realized I can bend the header as a whole to eliminate a rattle, or create clearance without a hammer, thus not fracturing the ceramic coatings inside or out.
Hope it helps, cheers
Thanks. When I had everything mocked up there was significant interference with big bars. Not that it couldn’t be massaged but with my meager power requirements (mid to high 300’s) how are long tube headers going to perform? How will it benefit me to have 500 horsepower headers on a 350 hp engine? Can you have too much header? Real question.