First, torsion bar clocking is built into the torsion bar itself, you can't change it. Factory clocking was 30°, aftermarket bars can be anything from 30° to 0. A really old, worn out bar may be different, torsion bars "sag" just like any spring but it happens radially, so you lose hex offset. They also have a left and a right, so make sure you haven't swapped them side for side.
You can put the LCA hex socket on the end of the torsion bar one "flat" off, changing the clocking of the LCA/torsion bar adjusting blade. With factory torsion bars and LCA's that's almost impossible to do, but if you have aftermarket torsion bars or tubular LCA's it's actually pretty easy to do accidentally. Especially if you have both tubular LCA's and large aftermarket bars with near 0 hex offset.
If we're talking all factory parts though I would be looking for damaged parts - torsion bar socket broken loose in the crossmember, LCA pivot tube broken loose in the K-member, or just a really worn out or damaged torsion bar.
The factory method for installation is to have the torsion bar adjusting bolt backed most of the way out of the adjuster, then let the LCA hang all the way down. It will stop around 45° (ish) when the LCA hits the K frame. Have the adjusting blade on the end of the adjusting bolt, which should be close to the adjusting plate in the LCA to get the hex socket lined up with the end of the bar.
