Low voltage at gauge, no charge?

The headlight switch headlights only power (you probably realize) originally got UNFUSED power from the welded splice. This was likely done to INSURE that you would never lose headlights unless the main fuse link blew. It is important to carefully pick your headlight power source so you aren't suddenly "in the dark."
When I did this upgrade, I left the connections under the dash the same as when I started, with the exception of the ammeter bypass of course, so headlight power source should be the same as it was.
But if both B1 and B2 are getting power WITH THE SWITCH ON (under load) then I would say you are in the wrong area.
I never checked for power with the switch on, only key on, the switch is still in the cluster, Ill take it out and hook it up to check.
Next thing to do is see if the HL switch is sending power down to the dimmer
Could a bad dimmer switch be the culprit? I think I saw a post somewhere on this site where a member stated that a bad switch can cause no lights at all. I will check for power down at the dimmer when I hook up the switch
B1 is headlights only, B2 is tail/ park and instrument lamps
thank you again for all your help and direction :)