1970 Duster AlterKtion, 4 Link, LS/T56/Turbo and Minitub
Figured it was time for an update, since I was just busting a buddies balls about an update!
I've been working on building a garage over the summer and still through the winter so that's where most of my focus has been, but the car has seen and is scheduled for a few updates!
I'm going to get a different master cylinder with a little larger bore to make my pedal feel like I'm not pushing the clutch of a 66' Mack.
CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER 13/16 "BORE X 1-3/8 " STROKE - MalWood USA
I found a pretty cheap and simple handheld E Brake lever that I think may mount next to my seat that I can use instead of the under-dash lever. The under-dash lever is super cool, but I can't use it with the under-dash clutch master, and that is more important to me.
After Market Parking Brake Center Pull Handle, Lay Down Ratchet Style Lever
I also bit the bullet and ordered a strange 60 housing for the car. Everything else on the car has been replaced or upgraded so I figured she did great last year and deserves the upgrade. We've fooled with the original 60 3 different times, and we could never get the whining to go away. Every time we took the cover off and pulled the caps, the center section would fall out, even though we pressed it in. And its not the setup guy, I 100% trust his work and when I first get the axle back from him its quiet until I really start to push it. Using OEM Spicer gears and Timken bearings, so I'm not 100% sure what's going on with it, as I'm certainly not a gear setup master. However, I may sell it to someone with less HP with full disclosure of the symptoms. I'm around 800whp, so someone with a 500hp engine may never have a problem with it and its all narrowed to A body width and has all the stuff welded on it for the Reilly motorsports 4 link.
Here's the new one!
A friend of mine has one of those super cool handheld 3D scanners that then imports it to your computer to use in a CAD program. Since the car worked so well last year I reallllyy wanted all the brackets setup the same way as they were previously, so I brought it up to his shop last Sunday and we built a jig from the old axle to build the new one. We scanned the old axle and then used his plasma table to cut out a piece of steel and weld some gussets on the back so it can't flex. Then we welded tabs onto the jig that held the upper link tabs with spacers bolted in between them in the correct location and angle. We also welded on plates that the perches bolted to, to set them correctly. The Reilly 4 link setup uses perches on the bottom still that mounts the lower link and coil over bracket. This was the finish product. We used the two center bolts on each side of the diff housing where the cover bolts as our locating datums.
Here's the new axle all welded up and painted, ready for install!
I also ordered a load diff cover per recommendation from my buddy who setup the axle. It has 2 set screws that apply tension to the top of the caps in the housing to help prevent them from flexing under load. Pretty neat!
I had called Bill Reilly up last year after drag week and told him that when doing drag week, my coilovers are cranked all the way up and I have twist in spacers to make the tires not rub from the weight of the trailer, luggage and 2 people. He told me to upgrade from 180lb to 300lb springs, so I bought those and they're waiting to be installed along with the new rear axle. Once it gets a bit warmer and we have a lot less snow I'll probably get it all back together!
Some other exciting news is this bad boy finally came in the mail! The championship jacket!
Hopefully I'll see some of you there this year! I still need to get my dad his ticket this Saturday with the normal signup chaos, but I got my early registration done!
The last task at hand for the summer is to install another clutch switch of some sort that I can use for no lift shifting to apply my 2 step rpm limiter of 4500rpm while I'm shifting gears without letting off the pedal and blowing the boost out the blow off valve. My same buddy who did the regear also does tuning and he gave me a new tune that's a bit hotter than my current tune after taking a look at it. He said the current tune is incredibly safe and with my safeties I have setup in the Holley program as well as the forged internals, I should be alright with his changes. However, I'm still going to slowly turn it up 1 degree at a time this summer instead of just loading his new tune to try to get into the 9's and hopefully not blow it up. The #1 unkown is how much the 93 pump octane fluctuates and that makes it difficult and dangerous.
Figured it was time for an update, since I was just busting a buddies balls about an update!
I've been working on building a garage over the summer and still through the winter so that's where most of my focus has been, but the car has seen and is scheduled for a few updates!
I'm going to get a different master cylinder with a little larger bore to make my pedal feel like I'm not pushing the clutch of a 66' Mack.
CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER 13/16 "BORE X 1-3/8 " STROKE - MalWood USA
I found a pretty cheap and simple handheld E Brake lever that I think may mount next to my seat that I can use instead of the under-dash lever. The under-dash lever is super cool, but I can't use it with the under-dash clutch master, and that is more important to me.
After Market Parking Brake Center Pull Handle, Lay Down Ratchet Style Lever
I also bit the bullet and ordered a strange 60 housing for the car. Everything else on the car has been replaced or upgraded so I figured she did great last year and deserves the upgrade. We've fooled with the original 60 3 different times, and we could never get the whining to go away. Every time we took the cover off and pulled the caps, the center section would fall out, even though we pressed it in. And its not the setup guy, I 100% trust his work and when I first get the axle back from him its quiet until I really start to push it. Using OEM Spicer gears and Timken bearings, so I'm not 100% sure what's going on with it, as I'm certainly not a gear setup master. However, I may sell it to someone with less HP with full disclosure of the symptoms. I'm around 800whp, so someone with a 500hp engine may never have a problem with it and its all narrowed to A body width and has all the stuff welded on it for the Reilly motorsports 4 link.
Here's the new one!
A friend of mine has one of those super cool handheld 3D scanners that then imports it to your computer to use in a CAD program. Since the car worked so well last year I reallllyy wanted all the brackets setup the same way as they were previously, so I brought it up to his shop last Sunday and we built a jig from the old axle to build the new one. We scanned the old axle and then used his plasma table to cut out a piece of steel and weld some gussets on the back so it can't flex. Then we welded tabs onto the jig that held the upper link tabs with spacers bolted in between them in the correct location and angle. We also welded on plates that the perches bolted to, to set them correctly. The Reilly 4 link setup uses perches on the bottom still that mounts the lower link and coil over bracket. This was the finish product. We used the two center bolts on each side of the diff housing where the cover bolts as our locating datums.
Here's the new axle all welded up and painted, ready for install!
I also ordered a load diff cover per recommendation from my buddy who setup the axle. It has 2 set screws that apply tension to the top of the caps in the housing to help prevent them from flexing under load. Pretty neat!
I had called Bill Reilly up last year after drag week and told him that when doing drag week, my coilovers are cranked all the way up and I have twist in spacers to make the tires not rub from the weight of the trailer, luggage and 2 people. He told me to upgrade from 180lb to 300lb springs, so I bought those and they're waiting to be installed along with the new rear axle. Once it gets a bit warmer and we have a lot less snow I'll probably get it all back together!
Some other exciting news is this bad boy finally came in the mail! The championship jacket!
Hopefully I'll see some of you there this year! I still need to get my dad his ticket this Saturday with the normal signup chaos, but I got my early registration done!
The last task at hand for the summer is to install another clutch switch of some sort that I can use for no lift shifting to apply my 2 step rpm limiter of 4500rpm while I'm shifting gears without letting off the pedal and blowing the boost out the blow off valve. My same buddy who did the regear also does tuning and he gave me a new tune that's a bit hotter than my current tune after taking a look at it. He said the current tune is incredibly safe and with my safeties I have setup in the Holley program as well as the forged internals, I should be alright with his changes. However, I'm still going to slowly turn it up 1 degree at a time this summer instead of just loading his new tune to try to get into the 9's and hopefully not blow it up. The #1 unkown is how much the 93 pump octane fluctuates and that makes it difficult and dangerous.