Tensioners were a fix for the cheap chains and short cam tunnel to crank line bore issues. The manufacture was using them so the chain didn't rattle against the cover. A good true roller does not need a tensioner. A tensioner only takes up the slack of the stretched chain.They were installed at the dealer in 1997 on engines that came in with a rattle for warranty work. They installed one on my 1997 Dakota.
It does not prevent the cam timing from changing. A stretched chain is still stretched on the pull side no matter how much slack you take out.
Ryan at Shady Dell had a tensioner on engines that he screwed up the line bores on With the true rollers the chain wore into the guides and chewed them up. he could have just bought a chain set for that application.
The tensioners were designed for smooth roller or silent chains only. Sharp edges of true rollers eat them up. Sure after the chain wears to the roller they ride on the roller but where did all the plastic go before that occurs.
This would be bad info for a sticky. All good machine shops throw them in the garbage. Until you buy the tensioner and then the cheap smooth sided chain you have most of the money to just get a good true roller Roll Master or Cloyes. They come in different sizes for your crank to cam separation. Your engine builder will determine what you need.
The correct chain shouldn't have any slack at all. 8 years at some very hard pulls and RPM's mine was like the day it was installed. Do it once do it right. To me the tensioner just looks like more to fail internally.
Do you all know why the holes are on one side of the diameter of the light weight sprocket?
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