What do I need and what do I don’t!

THIS GUY HAS READ MY POSTS!!!! ****!!! HE STOLE MY POSTS!!! Well explained!!


HOWEVER THIS IS NOT HOW I recommend wiring that relay. Instead of ONLY feeding the VR, relieve the ignition switch "run" (IGN1) of ALL load by cutting the dark blue, and feeding ALL the underhood loads, including the ignition circuit, off that relay.
Thanks, I’ve been dealing with these types of voltage drop issues dating back many years, to my time at the dealers in the seventies, well before the internet and any of these current automotive forums. Can’t take credit for the “flied relay”, that is a factory idea starting in the mid to late seventies B & C bodies with optional high output alternators drawing a fairly high level of field current.

Not a fan of running the ignition power supply (ignition1) through a relay for the same reason the factory didn’t use it's own circuit protection on that circuit. While relay reliability has improved, the relay and its related terminals and connections are just more points of possible failure. Agree, the ignition switch itself is a common point of high internal voltage drop. Running the ignition switch leads through Molex connectors starting in ’70 didn’t help with that.