Fine Tuning a 360 Magnum with a Brawler "Double Pumper"

jmanhoff said

It’s an eBay HEI clone, GM style obviously, with the build in coil. I can provide the link if it would help but it looks like just some generic clone.

I did use vacuum advance for a period of time on manifold, but it idled so high that I needed to completely cover the t slots and then some to get it to idle where I wanted it, so I went to ported.

I probably am going to get a true MSD dizzy at some point. I already plan to get a real Holley as the brawler is having fuel bowl issues (feeding), and if I go with Holley style dual feed bowls, I’ll already be halfway to getting a new carb, so might as well spend the extra bit and have a carb with better quality and such.

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Keep what you have.

The GM advance mechanism IMO is about as cheap assed junk as you can get.

The reason it’s used is because it’s cheap to build. And guys love it because they claim they don’t have to pull the distributor to work on it. Plus it has several hundred million man hours of tuning on it.

There is no way to know which “football” it has because there were so many of them. The football is the football shaped part that the weights move around. It has a major effect on the curve.

At any rate, never use two different springs on the weights. The mechanism will wobble (there’s a better term but I can’t think of it now” and it will drive you nuts. Always use the same springs on both sides.

There was a time when you could heat the weights and move the nose closer to the body of the weight. This is a far better way to limit mechanical advance than using the bushings but the last 10 distributors I’ve done and all the aftermarket weight kits I’ve bought are using powdered metal weights.

You can’t just heat and bend them. If you do it will just fracture the weight.

To get what you want you’ll probably need the heaviest springs you can get and see where you end up and tune from there.