Engine won’t fire

The checklist posted above does not go far enough. If you did those checks, next, pull the dist cap, and make sure the distributor turns with the starter. Examine the reluctor/ pickup for debri, rust, strike damage, etc. Consider checking the reluctor gap, use a brass or stainless (non magnetic) .008" (inches not metric) feeler

With the key in "run" and a spark test gap rigged to the coil tower, separate the distributor connector, and tap the bare terminal of the harness end on ground. Each time should result in a nice hot blue spark 3/8--1/2" long. DO NOT test and evaluate spark with resistor/ radio plug wire. Use a metallic core wire, even low voltage if "hung" in the air. Rig it to a plug gapped open, or buy a gap tester. Lisle makes an adjustable one.

Examine the distributor connectors for corrosion. Connect/ separate them several times, "feeliing" for tightness, and to scrub off corrosion/ oxide.

If you set your meter on low AC (NOT DC) and "rig" it to the distributor connector, it should generate about 1V AC when cranking.

You should have AT LEAST 10-10.V at the coil + when cranking USING THE KEY. With key in "run" and engine stopped, coil + will vary from perhaps 5 to 10V. If it is "same as battery, the coil/ ECU is not conducting.