SORRY NOT AN A BODY........STRANGE TOYOTA CAMRY ALIGNMENT NUMBERS????

When you installed the winter tires, were they mounted on the same wheels, or on identical wheels as, the car was formerly aligned on/with?

Imagine a line in front or rear view, running thru the center of the LBJ, and the Inboard pivot of the LCA, on either side of the car.
When that line is parallel to the ground, the line will be the longest.
If you raise the ride-height mechanically to run that way, the inboard pivot will rise, and pull the LBJ towards the centerline of the car.
Let's say you align the car to run that ride-height. As long as you are driving straight ahead, it will be just fine.
However, anytime the LCAs are not at the same angle as when the car was last aligned, the camber will change.
So say something happened and now that imaginary line is dead level. This has pushed the LBJ outward, and angled the top of the tire in, and put the road-pressure on the inboard edge.
>When the camber is changed, this ALWAYS changes the Toe-in, and so, in this new position, the toe-in is increased, which now points the laden edges towards eachother. So now you have two reasons whereby the alignment is burning off the inboard edges.
> at the new changed ride-height, the caster is also changed, but caster alone won't burn the tires off. However, if you changed your wheels to a different offset or SAI, and did NOT align the the car with the different winter wheels, well who knows what can happen.........
>Taller tires will also change the Scrub radius
>wheels with a different offset or more specifically a different backspace, will also mess with the scrub radius. Add that to the other problems.

So what happened to change that imaginary line, between the time the car was last aligned and today?

Somebody mentioned Strut bearings.
Some to many cars cannot change the alignment at the top of the struts. Therefore, to change camber, we have to loosen the strut from the lower spindle carrier, and thru the bagginess of the bolt-tunnels, it is sometimes enough to fix a camber problem. Or, you can install different bolts. The thing is this; if you do that and don't torque the bolts enough, or if for whatever reason the parts slip, well there you go.
I used to do that all the time but when I did, I drilled a little alignment hole to be a tell-tale, so that if I had a come back, that drilled hole would tell the story. Well, I never had a come-back in six years......... due to slipped pinchbolts.
> and finally, check your wheel-bearings.
A lot of newer cars have those cartridge-type of wheel bearings in the which they are non-adjustable. So when the bearing wears out, the entire rotating assembly gets loose, and the Front-Wheel Drive System will, under power, toe the wheels in.