28* initial timing for a 318? How can that be?
This already reveals alot. Measure the rpm which you saw it was 32* BTDC.
Pinging in 2nd gear is too much advance.
Measure and plot out the timing curve. Once you do that, then what to do is pretty straightforward.
The sluggish accel to 3000 could be timing related too.
Dynos are great but they won't be a big help on the launch. Get it into the safe zone, which its not right now. No point in repeating a high rpm, high load test at this point.
Winter fuel. It has lower Reid Vapor Pressure (RVP) and sucks when we get warm days early in the year.
You can try to reduce the problem but especially idling at low or no speed not much fuel moving through the lines or the bowls so it picks up heat. There are thin insulating spacer gaskets, and phenonlic as well as wood spacers starting around 1/2" thick. Just have to watch hood clearance when adding spacers with a dual plane.
Other things to do that may help is use factory fuel filter location and steel or stainless lines as much as possible. I've insulated some of mine. Also on my current engine there is a valley pan to reduce hot oil splashing on the bottom of the intake - at least thats the concept.
Thanks Mattax
I have an isolator its thickness is 0.320, edelbrock 9266. I also bought some insulating and reflective sleeve for my fuel line from pump. i am also looking into some coated Dougs headers to replace the old low hanging hedmans that radiate super heat. Just havnt installed until i sort out wiring and timing, first.
i will map my curve as it is current and perhaps go from there by hiring a recurve by shop with dist machine.
i was looking at an FBO plate and spring kit, then their ecu, and curving myself via mapping, as they report the oem black box ecu i have (plus ole school oem spare) will retard timing over 3500k.
But do i really care?, its not a drag car and already doesnt get traction under hard acceleration.
your advice on using the idle air to control idle speed somewhat along with idle screw, timing and maintaining t slot makes sense vs just timing and idle speed screw, combo to best power/vacuum at idle.
I really just want efficiency via use of vacuum advance without detonation or long term damage to my engine.
So after initial and curve and full mech advance, i will have to sort the vac canister out for my motors vacuum.
Again a bit confusing as some people state manifold vac and others ported vac. i really need to look at just how quickly ported starts and ends in rpm to see where it is pulling more timing, but manifold vac may raise timing enough to keep motor cooler, especially at idle or slow in traffic, which is an issue also when hot out. might "wake" it up quicker under acceleration if it has more vacuum timing in the curve also.
Appreciate your helpful information.