Jeep HEI for Hemi 6, possibly slant 6 (and GM Holden 6)
Yeah I figured you were Dave the pom from the old aussie forums. I didn't realise mopar market had shut down until I went back to look for your 16:1 steering gear thread haha
Is this information still available on the UK board?
I spent a while trying to get the curve for my 265 sorted, scorcher rebuilt & recurved the dizzy but it came in too fast and had to much total (30*) - ended up settling on 16 initial & 26 total at 4,000 rpm.
I disconnected the vac advance as the pulses from the individual runner setup would make the timing bounce around at cruise. Thought about drilling and tapping the manifold to make a balance tube to run vac advance off but never got there
steering i got there eventually collected up parts for a few years took me a long time to pluck up the courage.... :)
Manual steering box rebuild - Mopar Muscle Association UK
and for your webers.... if they are of the new spanish type they have a vacuum port with a cap on below the blades near the progression hole well cap. screw in one of these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301566311994?
and you can run the vacuum through one of these to stop the advance fluttering.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Various-Vacuum-Advance-Distributor-APV001/dp/B00DHH15VG?tag=fabo03-20
look up APV 001 you will find em for less... 1 carb pulls enough vacuum to take idle advance up to the high 20s early 30s once running. makes it snappy off the throttle.... but the advance pulls back quick to your chosen curve as the blades open....
same set up used on 2 litre and 1600 alfasud with a very similar pulse smoother plumbed into 1 carb. they just used ported vacuum instead.
i'm running spanish 152G standard e38 config slightly bigger air corrector, with the floats set 1.5 mm higher i.e if you set em with a 12 mm drill bit normally set em with a 10 mm (i can't remember the distance or the size of drill depends on float type) this is the six cylinder setting not the lower setting for a choppy vibratey 4 cylinder, that is standard. all those people thinking they needed more progression holes...for me it was float height setting all along... :)
works good no flat spots all nice
i use a piece of smoke white translucent or clear plastic dowel to check levels. pull the main jet stack out 1 side, of each carb, put the rod down the hole. the minute it hits fuel you see a shadow pass over the visible end, works on any carb with access down the well from the top. with a marker on the rod, that rests on the carb lid, paperclip or Eclip/circlip or some such, you can easily check which carbs fuel level is low or high and tweak em.
10 years off and on, buggering about, and nobody tells you this stuff, Webcon UK 2 miles from me and although helpful never truly spill the beans on how they work..they have a dyno operator to pay....
float height, the right curve, and a plastic rod. the keys to a happy weber life.. :)
Dave