It's not the power that will break it unless you drop the clutch at 5000, lol.
It'll be the torque, which is something that factory 340s never really had a lot of.
plus on the street, with street tires, first gear is not likely to break, Second maybe, but you'll have to be mean to it
My 367 kept tearing up the clutches, so what I did was,
1) my Diaphragm clutch had flyweights , that fly out with rop, which increases the clamping force. so
2) I reduced the static clamping so that it slipped at low rpm, just a little. No more clutch failures.
3) I did this by installing shims under each of the six retaining bolts , adjusting the thickness until I got what I wanted.
4) Now, I can almost dump the clutch and drive away, with a 10.97 starter gear. If I give it a little blip first, away it goes.
As for your hydraulic clutch, You only need about .100 TOTAL throw-out bearing travel, which includes about .080 for departure, and .020 for bearing retraction off the fingers.
Idk how much that would be at the fork.
If you don't have enough, and master is parking properly at the beginning of it's stroke, the question then is, is the master using ALL of it's available stroke.
If no, then why not.
If yes, then MAYBE, you'll need a longer-travel master. This will depend on if the slave has enough travel.
Before you buy anything, Make sure your Master is retracting all the way. This is to ensure the thing compensates for slave travel, as the clutch disc loses thickness ,due to wear.
If it doesn't compensate, the pedal will fall over time, and the slave will lose travel.