73 Dart Alternator doesn't show charge anymore.
I'm pretty sure the choke still has a wire but I needa check later.
Car doesn't cold start well without the choke, even out here.
Do a continuity check on the wire to the choke, if there is one. It should be the other wire from the engine connector if I read the wiring diagram correctly.
Chrysler used a mechanical choke with a bimetal coil. The electric was an assist to warm it up faster. At some point, they may have gone over to an electric only choke heat.
When you get other stuff figured out, you can work on choke settings. There's an initial setting ( engine off) and there is a pull off (engine running - vacuum opens the choke a bit). And another adjustment that hopefully you don't have to mess with, to see the choke opens enough as throttle is opened.
If I did get a new alternator, should I just get a 1 wire? And what amperage should I shoot for?
60 amp or lower factory style. (aka standard squareback with isolated field)
The amp ratings are a bit of game.
Its not clear how the different companies 'rate' their alternators.
Factory replacement ratings would have been in the 46 to 50 amp range.
Aftermarket/replacement we kindof have to take what we can get.
Not sure what is available where you are.