Well it IS in fact a VERY REAL problem, and is made worse by any added modern "stuff" like big radios (amps) electric pumps and whatever else, alone with larger alternators.
MA KNEW THIS WAS A PROBLEM which is why the so called police/ taxi/ fleet option exits. IT IS IN FACT a bulkead bypass at least in some partial measure.
And being the owner of a sea barge, YOU should know that even back around 71-ish, Ma abandoned the "full current' ammeter and went with an external shunt setup.
As a person who performed HVAC/R install, maintenance and repairs for about a dozen years, I've replaced many of the same general type of 1/4 "flag" connector terminals in heat pumps regarding the electric heating elements. Those terminals, in an electric furnace, handle nominally 20-25A for a standard 5KW heating element, AND THEY FAIL.
So those bulkhead terminals ARE IN FACT out of design spec at the outset.
HOWEVER most of us have quit recommending the specific bypass method shown on the MAD site, but rather REPAIR the bulkhead or run wiring STRAIGHT THROUGH, eliminate the AMMETER, and then run a LARGE GAUGE fused or breaker protected bypass direct from the alternator to the battery.
IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND the WEAKNESSES of the factory full current ammeter, you are simply in a dream world of denial.
I myself had to pull the cluster out of my 70 RR way WAY back in the early 70's, and drilled out and ran larger wires through the bulkhead to replace damaged terminals. This, obviously was LONG before Al Gore invented the internet.
WHY DO AMMETERS DIE?
Simple, really. The "shunt" which is really the entirety of the working "guts" of the ammeter--except for the needle, ---is NOT CRIMPED, welded, or brazed to the studs. The studs are generally splined, but they depend on hard mechanical clamping. In the case of my old 70RR (440-6, Ralleye dash) the cluster was PLASTIC, so the "sandwich" of the shunt, the studs, the plastic cluster housing, washers, and nuts, at some point got warm enough from TOO MUCH CURRENT that everything started to warm, soften the plastic, and become LOOSE. Now you have HOT, and you have HOT plastic, and you have SMELL and sometimes worse.
THIS IS ALL WELL DOCUMENTED I don't give one twit what your buddy on YeweToobe claims.