Ammeter bypass turning over alternator

kewen300 said
DAMN BULK HEAD CONNECTION!!
Upon doing a more extensive inspection of the R6 wire at the bulk head I noticed it was corroded beyond belief inside the plastic housing. To the point that I cannot get the wire out without cutting. Sprayed cleaner and worked at it about. Finally got same current with the battery in the run position at the R6 terminal on the alternator. I used a different battery as the battery for the car is charging. I used a deep cell boat battery. Starting volts was 12.3v when off. Car in run battery was at 11.8. I had 11.4 at the alternator.
Next step turn car on: turned it over and measured.
Battery stayed at 11.8v the bulk head connector stayed at 11.4 and the alternator did not go higher than 11.6
I attempted to give some rpm and nothing changed.

This weekend I and going to work on getting that tooth out of the bulkhead and install a new fuseable link.

Would this lack of volts at the alternator indicate a bad alternator? I need to remove it anyways to change the fuel pump.

Not surprising. It's pretty cool that these simple tests can narrow down where to look.

Let's see where you're at.
Car in run battery was at 11.8. I had 11.4 at the alternator.
So this seems to be a voltage drop (resistance) between the battery and the main splice.

Next step turn car on: turned it over and measured.
Does this mean engine running?
Even so, then its running on battery power.
What was the ammeter showing ?

Would this lack of volts at the alternator indicate a bad alternator?

No. We need to find out of the alternator's rotor was getting power. If it wasn't getting power, then it won't generate electricity.