Getting Dad his <12.99

TheLetterJ said
Can you elaborate on that? I started without the block and didn't care for the rake of the car and the lack of caster that came with it. I wanted to shim the pinion down a bit so I threw in the block (it's actually a cut down overload spring from a truck, bolted into the pack) at the same time as I installed the shims for a total of 1" more drop. Pinion is now 1.5-2° down from parrallel with the transmission tailshaft. It is my understanding that lowering blocks with Caltracs have much the same affect as raising the front of the bar since they're effectively lowering the rear of the bar relative to the chassis/axle and it should add more hit/bite to the suspension. I can't see it contributing to axle wrap any meaningful amount in this configuration, what would the downside be?

Using blocks in the rear to get caster numbers in the front is the wrong way to do it. I feel the same way about pinion angle. Ride height is about all they are good for and that’s personal preference. While the block may have helped that situation, they add leverage to the spring and initiate wrap when load is applied. Basically fighting what the caltracs are designed to eliminate. You’ll have the best results when the spring pad on the axle tube is bolted directly to the spring. And get your alignment through other methods.