Getting Dad his <12.99
I appreciate that you have enough interest in the matter to make a phone call about it!
I do understand how the block gives the axle more leverage against the spring, making the Caltracs work harder to control spring wrap, I just feel that the added 3/4" was not enough to cause problems in this scenario. That said, and I know it's a different world, but a very good friend of mine runs 4" lift blocks with Caltracs on a ~2000hp/3800lb sand dragster that runs 3.7's and spring wrap has never been an issue. He's actually the one who finally convinced me to run Caltracs mostly due to being able to preload each side differently to make the car go straight.
I did not lower the back to gain caster, but that was a welcome (albeit minimal) byproduct. I was trying to compensate for the ~1 1/2" that the rear tires raised the car. Between the small block, and using the upper hole in the front spring hanger (which is the reason I needed to shim the pinion down) I pretty much got it back to factory height. My dad had the front end sitting on the bumpstops too, but I raised it about 1/2 way back up to factory ride height from there. Now that I have ride height set where I want it, I will be realigning the front end. I'm planning to max out caster at the upper arms (as far as I can while keeping both sides the same), then shim the knuckle out at the lower balljoint (if necessary) to bring camber to zero, then set toe at 1/16".
Here's where it sits now:
I appreciate that you have enough interest in the matter to make a phone call about it!
I do understand how the block gives the axle more leverage against the spring, making the Caltracs work harder to control spring wrap, I just feel that the added 3/4" was not enough to cause problems in this scenario. That said, and I know it's a different world, but a very good friend of mine runs 4" lift blocks with Caltracs on a ~2000hp/3800lb sand dragster that runs 3.7's and spring wrap has never been an issue. He's actually the one who finally convinced me to run Caltracs mostly due to being able to preload each side differently to make the car go straight.
I did not lower the back to gain caster, but that was a welcome (albeit minimal) byproduct. I was trying to compensate for the ~1 1/2" that the rear tires raised the car. Between the small block, and using the upper hole in the front spring hanger (which is the reason I needed to shim the pinion down) I pretty much got it back to factory height. My dad had the front end sitting on the bumpstops too, but I raised it about 1/2 way back up to factory ride height from there. Now that I have ride height set where I want it, I will be realigning the front end. I'm planning to max out caster at the upper arms (as far as I can while keeping both sides the same), then shim the knuckle out at the lower balljoint (if necessary) to bring camber to zero, then set toe at 1/16".
Here's where it sits now: