Clutch release problem
What is it you are trying to do?
A slight grind into reverse is not unusual, I find if I pull it into 2nd gear first, it seems to go into 1st and reverse more easily, it was explained to me that pulling into 2nd spins all the gears to help them engage. Might be bs, but it seems to work .
Try it.
Good luck.
Atta a stop, the output shaft is stationary, together with the two synchronizer assemblies .
Engine idling, foot off the clutch, all the gears are spinning.
Clutch pushed in, the viscosity of the oil is the only thing that slows the spinning parts. until
you attempt a forward shift. At this time, the blocker ring brakes whatever gear you are trying to access, to match it to the speed of the Synchronizer assembly.
If the clutch is dragging on the flywheel/PP, this is nearly impossible and will result in grinding.
As for reverse, there is no synchronizer for it, and the operator has to wait for the cluster to stop spinning. The cluster is driven by the input gear, which is driven by the disc. So that cluster, no matter how thick the oil is, if the disc won't stop, it's gunna grind.
That cluster is on Needle-rollers, and all the other gears are spinning with it; sooooooo with thin oil or synthetic, it/they are in no mood to stop spinning. That disc HAS to not be dragging and/or departure has to be adequate to not let the spinning parts touch the disc.
A trick I use to catch first-gear quietly, is to grab it just before the car stops moving and while the synchronizers are still coming to a stop.
This only works in reverse, if the car is already rolling backwards.