To me, somewhere in the 225 to 240 @.050 on the intake side is the sweet spot for a street car. You can go a little less for more drivability or a little more for a bit more power. Let lift fall where it may according to the manufacturer of your cam, more lift per the same duration is most of the time better, as long as you have the correct springs and piston to valve clearance. Want more lift and a little more power, use 1.6 rocker arms. Remember that your cam needs to match your converter, gearing and compression. The more duration the more you need of all of them, and the more converter, gearing, and up to a certain point compression you have the less streetable the car is.
As for heads I recently bought a set of Speedmaster heads with a set of their stainless rockers, they packaged them terribly and UPS inevitably damaged them in shipping. After looking at the heads and rocker arms and seeing that the rocker arms hit the springs, and that it was going to be a mess to get those rockers to work, and that from what I could tell any aftermarket aluminum or stainless rocker would not fit and the the geometry was all wrong I decided to return them for a refund. I have just bought a set of Trick Flow heads and I am going to get the Harland Sharp rocker arms, from what I can see these parts will fit and the geometry will be close enough for a street car to run them without any work. The Trick Flow heads and the Harland Sharp rocker arms are not cheap but they are a quality pieces that work well together.
If you want to see a Duster 340 (has a 360 in it) with a 484 lift Mopar Performance hydraulic cam (using solid lifters), Trick Flow heads, Performer RPM air Gap intake, TTI headers running 11.15 in the 1/4 and being driven on the street go look at this channel, you can learn a lot from it:
Duster Garage