Bypassing the Amp gauge - Question about the MAD Electrical method

Ok so.im attempting to do the mad wiring and I'm just confused because the wiring diagrams that I have doesn't have a wire going to the ignition off of the ammeter
I have a 69 Dodge Dart but the engine is out of a 74 duster so it's a 360.

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The wire from the main splice to the ammeter is R6A.
The wire from the main splice to the ignition switch is J1
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MAD's diagrams are generic. The diagrams in the immediately preceeding posts were figuring out a modified car with battery in trunk.
As far as the electrical system goes, the engine is irrelavent. The '69 electrical system will work on an early 273 or a late 360. All of the connections are in the same locations as the original 318 or 340, and close enough to use a slant six harness as well.

When the engine is running, current flows from the alternator in wire R6 to the main splice, and then to the ignition switch through wire J1.
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If the battery needs recharging, current will flow through wire R6A to the battery.
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When the battery has been recharged, no current flows through the ammeter and the needle returns to center.

All of the wires connected at the main splice remain electrically hot with the key switched off.
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If a wrench, a screwdriver or a wedding ring touches a bare connection on any of those main wires at same time as contacting ground, there will be big sparks. The single fusible link provides some protection against this sort of major short, but will stop the initial spark.