Electronic distributor conversion kit ballast?
I don't know what you're working on but here's what I don't like.
The photo Vaanth posted from Layson's website shows what looks to be a ECU with a fake transistor and yet they are supplying a compensating (5 ohm) resistor) along with the ballast resistor. And no instructions? I don't trust the people who put this kit together. Bet the ballast is far more than .6 ohms. And we have no idea what the distributor has in it, as far as advance curve.
From your photo we see its a torsion bar hood, so before '67
But the ballast is in an odd spot (too me who is not that familiar with the early cars) and the wires to the starter relay are strained, which is bad.
My suggestion is get under hood electrics back to factory positions and there will be less problems down the road.
As far as ignition wiring goes, when starting, there is wire from the key switch the starter relay (S1), the is seperate from the feed to ignition (J3).
if you have '63 the schmatic looks like this
and a '64 is like this
(The battery positive feed wire could also be black depending on year and model)
If you really want to switch to an ECU and magnetic pickup distributor, my suggestion is to get a piggyback connector and place it on the ballast resistor. Then attach the ECU power lead (usually light blue, always from the top of the pentagon connector) to the piggypack using a 1/4 push-on terminal.
Also note that back in the day Chrysler suggested using an electronic voltage regulator when converting to an electronic ignition.
I don't know what you're working on but here's what I don't like.
The photo Vaanth posted from Layson's website shows what looks to be a ECU with a fake transistor and yet they are supplying a compensating (5 ohm) resistor) along with the ballast resistor. And no instructions? I don't trust the people who put this kit together. Bet the ballast is far more than .6 ohms. And we have no idea what the distributor has in it, as far as advance curve.
From your photo we see its a torsion bar hood, so before '67
But the ballast is in an odd spot (too me who is not that familiar with the early cars) and the wires to the starter relay are strained, which is bad.
My suggestion is get under hood electrics back to factory positions and there will be less problems down the road.
As far as ignition wiring goes, when starting, there is wire from the key switch the starter relay (S1), the is seperate from the feed to ignition (J3).
if you have '63 the schmatic looks like this
and a '64 is like this
(The battery positive feed wire could also be black depending on year and model)
If you really want to switch to an ECU and magnetic pickup distributor, my suggestion is to get a piggyback connector and place it on the ballast resistor. Then attach the ECU power lead (usually light blue, always from the top of the pentagon connector) to the piggypack using a 1/4 push-on terminal.
Also note that back in the day Chrysler suggested using an electronic voltage regulator when converting to an electronic ignition.