Temp & fuel gauges - what am I overlooking?

80 ohms = no needle movement. 73 ohms should = empty hash mark. 34 ohms should get close to the 1/4 tank mark but,,, your model gauge, from 1/2 tank down, even with the OEM sender, never was very accurate. The same 73, 23,10 tester was still used. Looking for what 1/4 tank is on your gauge just because you have the tools to do it is really only for fun. I have to say, all the time wasted over 2 bad senders is ridiculous imo. Need to know,,, the wire terminal for the fuel gauge was a booted 90 similar to what you have at temp sender. Yes a hex nut with toothed washer works but DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Turn that studs and get a fuel leak and likely break the connection other end too.
I know all that but thanks.

FWIW when I first put it in the the original connector wouldn't plug in. I don't remember exactly why but I think the stud is too big.

You can't imagine how much I wish I had never pulled the cluster out. Now I can't get the speedo cable plugged back in Seat comes out today so I can get my old decrepit self under the dashboard. It seems like the cable's in the wrong place somewhere because it's too far to the passenger side, and I am not inclined to pull the cluster again to re-route the cable.