3/4" master cylinder?

Raskull said
Additional thoughts: block both ports on m/c, stand on the pedal & see if it stays firm or if it fades.
If it fades, try bench bleeding m/c on the car again. If that doesn't work, then the puck or faulty bore is the problem so replace it. If you insist on keeping the Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve, turn clockwise all the way in for full flow to the rear brakes. I've had good luck with NAPA MC36221 m/c 67-68 Barracuda or Dart. Maintain minimum .040 clearance on your brake pedal shaft to m/c.

Thanks, pedal doesn't fade at all... third MC also with the same issue so i don't it's an issue (i changed them due to wanting smaller sizes, not bad or issues)

Can't leave .040 to the MC.. on the earlier cars the brake light switch is hit by the MC rod.. what i do is let the pedal sit at it's reseting spot then move the brake light switch into to meet it, so the mc isn't being held forward at all. but i can't really leave space.

I think there has to be air int he system somewhere still.. once the rear bleeders show up i will run a gallon through the system and see if it helps. I have one line i think i will remake also, just don't like how it's run..

BTW.. it's not a matter of insisting on keeping the wilwood valve.. i need some prop valve for the rear and people seem to use them fine?