Considering Fuel System Upgrades/Changes
These are my notes. I may have changed a thing or two since. Lots of notes, but it was very easy once I mapped it out. I also added efi and a Denso alternator at the time.
Original fuse box has 5 fuses:
1) Dash lights
2) To light switch for interior lights and to hazard flasher/stop light switch
3) Lighter
4) Heater
5) Radio
Bought Painless 70207 fuse block, 7 circuits (3 Constant, 4 Ignition), 20amp fuses, circuit breaker included.
Removed old fuse box, mounted Painless in same spot, fits perfect.
Painless Fuse Box
3 Constant
1) Wire directly to light switch (B1, replaces BLK-TR). Light Switch was not originally fused.
2) Wire directly to ignition switch (replaces RED wire). Ignition switch was not originally fused.
3) Wire to pink/pink splice where fuse box was (to light switch for interior lights and to hazard flasher/stop light switch).
4 Ignition
1) Wire directly to heater switch (BLACK-TR).
2) Wire directly to new alternator.
3) Wire directly to aftermarket radio.
4) Wire directly to USB charging ports.
That leaves 3 wires where the old fuse box was:
1) BLACK – into the fuse box – comes from the ignition, goes to a welded splice, then out to the Directional Flasher, Gauges, and fuse box. It is an Ignition power source, so I connected it to the Painless Pink wire.
2) TAN – into the fuse box, it is the feed from the Light Switch to adjust the Instrument Lights.
3) ORANGE – out from fuse box, it is the power to the Instrument Lights
4) TAN and ORANGE – inline fuse holder with a 10amp, spliced them together, zip tied to the side of the Painless.
Used multiple distribution blocks, whichever was cheaper: SUM-900390 or PRF-80116
Positive Junction Block mounted under dash, made a small bracket.
1) Connected the ‘Start’ wire (Brown).
2) Connected the ‘Run’ wire (Blue Tracer).
3) New wire to positive on coil.
4) New wire to a voltmeter.
5) Tach power.
Ammeter/Alternator Charge Wire
1) Ammeter and wiring with welded splice eliminated entirely by just bypassing it, left in place within the dash harness.
2) New Denso 60 amp Alternator.
3) New Alternator charge wire to Starter Relay – 8-gauge wire with a 6 inch 12-gauge fusible link.
4) New Sense wire with inline fuseable link from Alternator to Starter Relay.
Notes
1) Distributor power from positive on coil.
2) Original ORANGE wire for radio lights used for lights on Tach/Accessory Gauges.
3) Aftermarket radio came with fused constant power, only for memory, straight to battery.
4) When running wires directly to original plastic connectors, used terminals that fit and lock in: PCO-1589PT and PCO-5950G
5) Original harness runs on driver side inner fender. Removed wiring from engine on passenger side and routed on passenger inner fender. Factory holes already there, used factory harness clips. No wires on engine.
6) Use harness tape, SUM-165111, not electrical tape, factory connectors, regular connectors, heat shrink, heat gun, good crimpers, etc. Bought all in bulk, cheaper and mistakes/changes don't leave you with not enough of this or that to continue.
7) New instrument circuit boards and lights. Made a small harness to ground every light, from the back of the instrument cluster to the dash.
8) Negative hub mounted on firewall next to battery.
9) Replaced headlights with H4 and new housings.
10) Replaced interior bulbs with LEDs.
11) Replaced taillight and reverse bulbs with ones for a Honda, more $ but last decades.
12) Replaced both flashers with the NAPA solid state one, it’s like $13 but well worth it. Directionals work awesome!
13) See Daniel Stern Lighting for bulb and flasher info.
Headlight Relay Kit
1) Bought from a FABO/FBBO member, crackedback I think.
2) Relays and fuses can be mounted anywhere, under the battery, radiator support.
3) 2 power wires can be routed across the firewall to the Alternator stud, or in front of the radiator support with the headlight harness.
4) Eliminates power going directly to headlight switch then back out to headlights.
Pic of my original wiring diagram, which is a large laminated color copy, I think I got it on ebay, and it was a great tool.
My harnesses were all new and in excellent shape before I did this, so leaving existing wiring was a good choice for me, plus all the major stuff was replaced or eliminated.
Also, I somehow had extra black and red vacuum port block of things, so I put them on the studs of my pos and neg junction blocks, and one on my alternator stud.
Another option, on my 62 Dart I bought an AAW harness/fuse box for $299.
Fuse box too big for an a-body, imo.
A ton of wire, but I had to make the dome light and rear tail light harness, and extend the headlight/directional harness, and other stuff.
I used the same factory and Pico connectors.
These are my notes. I may have changed a thing or two since. Lots of notes, but it was very easy once I mapped it out. I also added efi and a Denso alternator at the time.
Original fuse box has 5 fuses:
1) Dash lights
2) To light switch for interior lights and to hazard flasher/stop light switch
3) Lighter
4) Heater
5) Radio
Bought Painless 70207 fuse block, 7 circuits (3 Constant, 4 Ignition), 20amp fuses, circuit breaker included.
Removed old fuse box, mounted Painless in same spot, fits perfect.
Painless Fuse Box
3 Constant
1) Wire directly to light switch (B1, replaces BLK-TR). Light Switch was not originally fused.
2) Wire directly to ignition switch (replaces RED wire). Ignition switch was not originally fused.
3) Wire to pink/pink splice where fuse box was (to light switch for interior lights and to hazard flasher/stop light switch).
4 Ignition
1) Wire directly to heater switch (BLACK-TR).
2) Wire directly to new alternator.
3) Wire directly to aftermarket radio.
4) Wire directly to USB charging ports.
That leaves 3 wires where the old fuse box was:
1) BLACK – into the fuse box – comes from the ignition, goes to a welded splice, then out to the Directional Flasher, Gauges, and fuse box. It is an Ignition power source, so I connected it to the Painless Pink wire.
2) TAN – into the fuse box, it is the feed from the Light Switch to adjust the Instrument Lights.
3) ORANGE – out from fuse box, it is the power to the Instrument Lights
4) TAN and ORANGE – inline fuse holder with a 10amp, spliced them together, zip tied to the side of the Painless.
Used multiple distribution blocks, whichever was cheaper: SUM-900390 or PRF-80116
Positive Junction Block mounted under dash, made a small bracket.
1) Connected the ‘Start’ wire (Brown).
2) Connected the ‘Run’ wire (Blue Tracer).
3) New wire to positive on coil.
4) New wire to a voltmeter.
5) Tach power.
Ammeter/Alternator Charge Wire
1) Ammeter and wiring with welded splice eliminated entirely by just bypassing it, left in place within the dash harness.
2) New Denso 60 amp Alternator.
3) New Alternator charge wire to Starter Relay – 8-gauge wire with a 6 inch 12-gauge fusible link.
4) New Sense wire with inline fuseable link from Alternator to Starter Relay.
Notes
1) Distributor power from positive on coil.
2) Original ORANGE wire for radio lights used for lights on Tach/Accessory Gauges.
3) Aftermarket radio came with fused constant power, only for memory, straight to battery.
4) When running wires directly to original plastic connectors, used terminals that fit and lock in: PCO-1589PT and PCO-5950G
5) Original harness runs on driver side inner fender. Removed wiring from engine on passenger side and routed on passenger inner fender. Factory holes already there, used factory harness clips. No wires on engine.
6) Use harness tape, SUM-165111, not electrical tape, factory connectors, regular connectors, heat shrink, heat gun, good crimpers, etc. Bought all in bulk, cheaper and mistakes/changes don't leave you with not enough of this or that to continue.
7) New instrument circuit boards and lights. Made a small harness to ground every light, from the back of the instrument cluster to the dash.
8) Negative hub mounted on firewall next to battery.
9) Replaced headlights with H4 and new housings.
10) Replaced interior bulbs with LEDs.
11) Replaced taillight and reverse bulbs with ones for a Honda, more $ but last decades.
12) Replaced both flashers with the NAPA solid state one, it’s like $13 but well worth it. Directionals work awesome!
13) See Daniel Stern Lighting for bulb and flasher info.
Headlight Relay Kit
1) Bought from a FABO/FBBO member, crackedback I think.
2) Relays and fuses can be mounted anywhere, under the battery, radiator support.
3) 2 power wires can be routed across the firewall to the Alternator stud, or in front of the radiator support with the headlight harness.
4) Eliminates power going directly to headlight switch then back out to headlights.
Pic of my original wiring diagram, which is a large laminated color copy, I think I got it on ebay, and it was a great tool.
My harnesses were all new and in excellent shape before I did this, so leaving existing wiring was a good choice for me, plus all the major stuff was replaced or eliminated.
Also, I somehow had extra black and red vacuum port block of things, so I put them on the studs of my pos and neg junction blocks, and one on my alternator stud.
Another option, on my 62 Dart I bought an AAW harness/fuse box for $299.
Fuse box too big for an a-body, imo.
A ton of wire, but I had to make the dome light and rear tail light harness, and extend the headlight/directional harness, and other stuff.
I used the same factory and Pico connectors.