several voltage regulator burn
The factory system only needs about 28 amps at 14 V to handle running the engine, plus lights on, wipers running, heater fan running, brake lights.
Add to that the maximum power these new devices can draw. Then you will have good baseline for the power that the alternator should be able to produce for your car's needs. You may wish to add another 10 to 15 amps to account for battery recharging after start up.
Larger alternators weigh more, sometimes take up more room, and those with high ratings often are less capable at low rpm.
An example of higher rated alternator that is less capable at low rpm is shown on this chart of GM 10SI alternators.
In this example the "72 Amps" 10 SI will need a much smaller pulley to provide the same power as the "63 amp" alternator at low engine rpms.
Also consider that more power is often possible due to a stronger electromagnetic field. Unless the design is much more efficient, the stronger field is developed by drawing more current. So again at low rpm this can be less efficient and steals amps when they are least available from the alternator.
I think you should consider some alternators based on designs of the later 1980s and 90s and a matching regulator. There's a Denso alternator that is relative popular and my understanding is not too difficult to fit.
The system only needs an alternator that can provide the power demanded.
The factory system only needs about 28 amps at 14 V to handle running the engine, plus lights on, wipers running, heater fan running, brake lights.
Add to that the maximum power these new devices can draw. Then you will have good baseline for the power that the alternator should be able to produce for your car's needs. You may wish to add another 10 to 15 amps to account for battery recharging after start up.
Larger alternators weigh more, sometimes take up more room, and those with high ratings often are less capable at low rpm.
An example of higher rated alternator that is less capable at low rpm is shown on this chart of GM 10SI alternators.
In this example the "72 Amps" 10 SI will need a much smaller pulley to provide the same power as the "63 amp" alternator at low engine rpms.
Also consider that more power is often possible due to a stronger electromagnetic field. Unless the design is much more efficient, the stronger field is developed by drawing more current. So again at low rpm this can be less efficient and steals amps when they are least available from the alternator.
I think you should consider some alternators based on designs of the later 1980s and 90s and a matching regulator. There's a Denso alternator that is relative popular and my understanding is not too difficult to fit.