acavdragoon
Well-Known Member
On my 1966 Barracuda I have this teepee looking connection that’s covering a threaded screw. What’s is its purpose? Why wasn’t a nut used instead? Maybe to dissipate heat?
Dash board teepee
- Thread starter acavdragoon
- Start date
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Looks like an insulated type fastener to isolate that stud from the circuit board. My dash had little black round plastic caps that looked like a wire nut. I wouldn't put a conductive nut on it. It may be a hole for a different gauge option.
acavdragoon
Well-Known Member
Here’s a side view of the teepee connection. The meter is showing continuity between the teepee and the screw, as well as the copper trace on the board.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
What's on the other side?
It looks like a speed nut to tie the ~5V from the internal IVR in the fuel gauge to the cir board where it feeds the temp and oil gauge 5v inputs
One of the other nutted posts is the 12v in and the other is the sender in.
One of the other nutted posts is the 12v in and the other is the sender in.
acavdragoon
Well-Known Member
I haven’t taken it apart yet. But getting ready to. I’m installing an IRV3 to it. I’m going to takeout the or I should say disable the old original IRV inside the fuel gauge. The teepee is the 5v connection for the IRV3. I need to know as much information about this before I solder or connect a new line to it.
If it was me I would do the disabling per RT-Engineerings info. Then add a nut like in the other 2 posts, and a second nut to tie the output of the ivr3 to the post.
You can get speed nuts from the hardware store or use a nut like on the other 2 posts with the toothed washer.
If you want I have several speed nuts I'll be happy to send you one for free
Watch this video.
You can get speed nuts from the hardware store or use a nut like on the other 2 posts with the toothed washer.
If you want I have several speed nuts I'll be happy to send you one for free
Watch this video.
acavdragoon
Well-Known Member
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
@Mattax , @MadScientistMat may know
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
Nothing other than what the FSM shows. I never had a '66. I'd have to search through photos here to see what one looks like. I'd expect a speed-nut there.
You are correct. The voltage limiter in with the thermal gauge was considered a lot of heat in that can plus that stud does get warm. There is a larger square hole under there. By 67 model they fingered out this was overkill. The warm stud got a bakelite cap similar shape to a household wire nut. No square hole in the board.
Please know that you don't need to open your fuel gauge unless you want to look in it. Simply lift it from the cast metal housing and isolate its backside from ground. A small piece of electric tape works. You can place a outboard regulator anywhere. Move the 12 volt wire from harness connector to the new regulator. Attach its 5 volt output to any thermal Guage. Copper trace links them all. Happy moparing.
Please know that you don't need to open your fuel gauge unless you want to look in it. Simply lift it from the cast metal housing and isolate its backside from ground. A small piece of electric tape works. You can place a outboard regulator anywhere. Move the 12 volt wire from harness connector to the new regulator. Attach its 5 volt output to any thermal Guage. Copper trace links them all. Happy moparing.
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By the way, home depot has #10-32 hex nuts and internal toothed washers like those on your amp gauge, 10 count in little orange packages for coins.
acavdragoon
Well-Known Member
Got them already, thank you!
Their speedy nut contacted only 1 thread of the stud. A hex nut is better contact but they can Crack the gauge backboard if they turn a rusty stud. I have used my fingers to run a die over the threads several times and as careful as I was, yeah I cracked a couple of boards. Ended up reproducing those from f4 fiberglass and transplanting the studs.
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