Mystery of the smoking nuts

There are flat pads on the backing plates that the frames of the shoes make contact with. They are supposed to be greased. If not, the shoes can potentially bind and not return properly. Did you put a dab of high temp grease on each pad? I think there are two for each shoe.

Did not do that. Corrected that last night.
If the brake-shoes are not fully retracting, yur gunna see them not sitting against the top anchors.
Here are la few reasons for this. In order of likelihood;
Mechanical;
1) park brake strut engaged
2) park brake cables not releasing
Hydraulic;
3) fluid not returning to M/C. This can be due to
a) w/c slugs sticking in their bores, or
b) collapsed hoses, or
c) internally rusted brake lines. This usually takes place in the lowest parts of the rear lines, where water collects, like under the driver's seat.
I've never seen it in front disc brakes.
d) compensating port not open. This could be an adjustment if a recent replacement, but on ancient ones, the hole is usually rusted shut. I just drill it out as a matter of course; but don't drill into the seal! You can often tell if the port is closed by the fluid not roiling on pedal release.


Unrelated to brake drag,
is rearend drag or rear wheel-bearing adjustment;
>like as if the axle is allowed to carry the drum into contact with the shoes. or
>If the gear oil is not serving it's secondary function as a coolant anymore and the lash goes away. or
>if the fluid level is too low, and the pinion bearing is going away.
>Don't forget; tapered bearings have to be grease-packed; they do NOT share oil with the differential. Well, they're not supposed to.
BTW,
>if your rear tires are not the same diameter, then differential action is called into play, which will make heat inside the diff. which will go into the oil, then the housing and simultaneously, the axles.
>also
Soft, undersized or overloaded tires, will make plenty of heat due to carcass-flex, some of which goes into the air inside the tires, then into the wheels which are bolted to the axles and drums. Sometimes the tires get so hot that they explode.
Started chipping away at this. Got the brakes to sit in the top anchor by moving the parking brake cable ring but the front shoe doesn’t seem to come back flush after a few uses.

A lot of comments about the flexible hose. Going to replace that. Also seeing the MC starting to drip. Would make sense there is some pressure build up issues. Hoping it’s not the rest of the brake line but guess I should figure out how to flush those and hope I dont have to replace just yet. Any specific function of the screw on top of this Tee I am missing?
IMG_7583.jpeg


…no idea what the compensation port is and google/manual is failing me. Also sounds like an accurate set of symptoms
IMG_7604.jpeg


Hoping the heat issue is hydraulic. I’ll give the rest of the rear end a look. So far the differential didn’t seem to be heating up much, just both brakes and hubs. Still need to dive deeper on both sides but seems like previous owner replaced the tapered bearings with green bearings, everything is oiled up and mostly smooth. Kinda feels like a “clicky”when I spin the hubs but not preventing anything from rolling or making noises.

After that, it’s back to the mystery rub that’s been through two sets of shoes and two drums on the driver side.

Keeping an eye out for a junk valiant rear end as my plan c