72bluNblu said

Yeah, I’ll take it for what it’s worth, nothing. Literally wrong on ALL accounts. Basic suspension concepts and you don’t comprehend them.

Sway bars add roll stiffness. You don’t add a rear sway bar and increase understeer, literally the opposite. If you got understeer from increasing rear roll stiffness your suspension is a soup sandwich. Or your driving skill is.

Rear sway bars are an integral part of a well handling Mopar. Not understanding how to use or tune them doesn’t change that.



Do you know the rear spring rate? Are the ESPO’s the XHD version? That’s usually a 110 lb/in spring.

With the tire stagger you can certainly induce more rear roll rate than a factory car, but with a stock sized front sway bar you do want to be careful not to overdo the rear bar compared to the front.

The Hellwig bar is quite a bit larger in diameter than a factory bar, you may want to look into running Hellwig bars front and rear especially with the factory torsion bars. You can still use a lot more rate up front.



I’d run Hellwig on both ends.


It’s a balance, and there are some really well respected drivers and car builders that disagree as far as how much wheel and roll rate you want to control with the sway bars vs the springs.

Obviously the torsion bars or leaf springs set the wheel rate all the time. The sway bar will only add wheel rate for lateral load transfer, they should be mostly out of the system if both wheels are acting together.

So there’s definitely a school of thought that you want to run really heavy sway bars to control your lateral transfer while keeping your primary springs softer so that the ride quality isn’t as affected. Realistically, it’s all a balance. IMO the sway bars are more for fine tuning, it’s easier to adjust them than change out the main springs.

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