Go to Electrical updates/upgrades List

Nice question.

Got me to write out all of the upgrades for my 1968 Dodge Dart GTS 383 resto/stealth mod.

It's long but here you go:

Wiring Upgrades –Supply Side

Relocate battery to passenger side of trunk

Installed 4-terminal 300 amp bus bar on firewall

Installed 2/0 SGX cable from bus bar to battery

Ground battery to trunk seam sheet metal below trunk lid hinge with 2/0 SGX cable - black

Installed single post auxiliary ground terminal next to next to bus bar on firewall

Installed 4 AWG SGX cable from auxiliary ground terminal to battery

Installed 110 amp single-wire alternator

Installed a Busman 125-amp circuit breaker for alternator on firewall in lieu of fusible link

Wired alternator positive to Busman and then to bus bar with 4 AWG SGX cable - black

Wired alternator negative to auxiliary ground terminal 6 AWG SGT cable – black, to supplement ground through engine and chassis

Grounded driver front of engine block (low) with 2/0 AWG to adjacent subframe with existing bolts

Grounded engine from rear passenger side head existing bolt hole to firewall with 10 AWG – black, with correct Mopar connectors to emulate the stock Mopar ground



Wiring Upgrades –Demand Side

Wired mini starter load to bus with 2 AWG GSX cable – red

Installed new starter relay in original position at battery location in engine compartment

Connected radiator PWM fan controller direct to bus and ground with TXL wire and fusible link

Deleted, bypassed or repurposed all stock ignition wiring

MSD-6AL connected to battery bus and ground terminal

Added a 6-circuit enclosed relay and fuse box in the engine compartment for high/low headlights and other circuits auxiliary to the stock harness

Installed a reproduction engine compartment harness but modified it for the headlight relay upgrade detailed in many forums

Installed Koito halogen headlights with ceramic connectors

Custom 3-button under dash switch panel with two color (on/off) LED lighting for line-lock, fuel pump and oil accumulator

Retro Sound reproduction radio powered from the original harness connector and battery

DS18 stereo amplifier powered directly from the battery mounted in the trunk on the slope behind the back seat with inline fuse

DS18 powered subwoofer mounted flat in trunk behind back seat and wired to battery with inline fuse

Added Innovate 3-gauge cluster above center console for oil, water temp, voltage, duel air/fuel ratio (right and left), and data acquisition. These each require their own circuit with the correct rated fuses.

Wired Battery Tender cable harness to battery


Wiring Upgrades –General Notes

All connections 8 AWG and larger were hydraulically crimped

All connections 10 AWG and smaller were hand crimped with correct tool (practice and test first)

Crimped and soldered a few connections early on but moved away from solder after more research (except for speakers)

Used marine grade heat shrink on most connections for corrosion resistance and strain relief

Used Painless Classic Braid wire loom extensively for wire protection and a clean vintage look

Used correctly sized Deutsch connectors when connectors were needed for new circuits

Photocopy wire schematics from factory manual to use while you’re in the car, and for design and modification

Schematics drawn (by hand) for all mods and non-stock circuits

All non-stock wiring labeled using a Brother label printer with black label tape, often both ends of the wire

Removed any previous electrical mods as I replaced or eliminated those circuits

Checked all existing wires for cuts and abrasions

Replaced firewall bulkhead connector and each interior-side connector with correct Packard 58 terminals

Tested circuits as I installed them


There are probably a few I forgot. The car has high horsepower, I want it to run reliably and be easier to repair if needed. And I like doing this :)