416" on the dyno
Way better info than that calculator are that there are a number of us out there already doing what your in the middle of doing, so it isn’t much guesswork to know what the car should run, with even middling chassis, convertor setups.
OK, I'll take your word for it!
Apologies if I posted all this already but the chassis is as follows; QA1 front end, (saved 18lbs. over the stock stuff) FMVB 904 with 6 front and 5 rear clutches (no low gear set though, probably don't need it), old-school square tube frame connectors, 6 point cro-mo roll bar, (for now) Caltracs with their adjustable shocks, 28" drag radial, 4.10 gear. As I mentioned to you converter is a 9 1/2" 4,500 which after calling them direct Dynamic says should be OK.
Figure I'd start the launch process at 1,500 and go from there. My last set of brakes wouldn't hold at the car over 1,200 and the 60fts were usually in the 1.7s which are commensurate with the 12.0 ET. Like I said, getting this car to go 1.4 in the 60 will be a fairly monumental achievement. Once I get some time slips I'll probably be looking into getting some decent shocks.
Not totally sure on the weight yet but hoping/believe it is in fact under 3,000 without me (195). No heater, radio, back seat, one Kirkey aluminum seat, fiberglass hood, aluminum rad, aluminum bumper brackets (by JB Mopars in MI.), lighter Wilwood brakes in front, yada yada. If/when I have to go to a cage I'll start looking into ways to compensate for the extra weight. Has a full 3" exhaiust too which is heavy. I decided against turn downs and the full tubing keeps some weight in the back.
Yes, those are real Fenton Gyros. I need to swap the wheel studs for shorter ones, don't need 2" sticking out of the lug nuts. Also have a set of slightly taller M/T radial front runners that I need to put on.
