273 Commando Spark Plug Wire Options?

Fair enough and we are going to have to agree to disagree. From a materials science standpoint in 1966 (my Barracuda's year) a black RTV Silicone used by a US automaker was like finding a Ipod that year .... you can't because it was not available yet. Available sources say stuff like this:

The factory adhesive Chrysler used was a black, hard-setting epoxy-type mastic Chrysler called it, generically, a “thermal setting black epoxy adhesive.” Internally it was a resin-based mastic manufactured by:
  • United Technologies / Dexter-Hysol precursors, or
  • 3M’s early Scotch-Weld equivalents
Why it's not what we now call RTV silicone because RTV Silicone:
  • Didn’t exist in the needed oil/heat-resistant black formulation until the late 1970s
  • Stayed flexible—not good for bonded trim
  • Was too expensive for mass production in the 60s
Epoxy, on the other hand:
  • Cured rigid and glass-hard
  • Withstood 250–300°F easily
  • Stuck well to aluminum + painted steel
  • Could be heat-accelerated on the assembly line
  • Was dirt cheap
This was the standard trim adhesive of the era.

Modern equivalents are things like:
  • 3M 08115 Panel Bond (structural, overkill, permanent)
  • JB Weld Original (steel-filled epoxy)
  • 3M Scotch-Weld DP190 or DP100 (closest to the old Chrysler adhesive)
  • Hysol EA-934NA (a nearly perfect period match, rock-hard when cured)

Feel free to vote me off the island, but the story is not checking out. Based on available records of the era, in 1965–67:
  • Silicone RTV wasn’t oil-safe
  • It wasn’t heat-stable enough
  • Black RTV didn’t exist
  • Urethane RTV hadn’t entered automotive use
  • Polysulfide RTV was toxic, expensive, and aerospace-only
  • Epoxy-RTV didn’t exist yet (epoxy adhesives cured via chemical hardener, not “RTV” vulcanization)

Black RTV is what I have used with good results, I have done more than a few. The original adhesive is not rock hard and there are only 2 round spots, about a 1" diameter, that adheres each fin to the valve covers. It is relatively easy to remove the fins with the original adhesive and can be cleaned completely off with a wire wheel. I would not want them permanently attached. I have to throw the BS flag on the not oil-safe claim and the not heat stable. RTV is used on many joints to seal oil pans, intake manifolds, and other places as well such as exhaust manifolds and exhaust joints. It will however dissolve in gasoline. Besides, my engines do not leak oil, and I use stove pipe valve covers. Of course, what do I know. Maybe the RTV will weaken and fall off in the next 50 years that my engines will last. So far I can't tell the difference between the original adhesive and the "new" RTV in function.