340 for Cruising and Fun 1/4 mile Passes
Well… IMO
You can use hyper slugs instead. Cheaper lighter while being very durable. Piston slap is a loose fitting piston. Hypers run tighter the forged pistons. .050 is considered max for any quench.
The stock OEM heads are OK at best IMO. With the listed cams lift, a bowl porting, while not needed, would be a nice help and addition to do if your heads are not cracked and I’d bet they are.
On the Hughes cam, I have never seen and advertised and a at .050 number. 212@050 is small but fine for a stock converter.
Find out the weight of the lifter vs others. This is the Magnums second biggest draw back, lifter weight, IMO.
That would be the correct intake to use IMO over the cheaper chink intake and the 650 will provide enough cfm for the job. A 750 is fine as well, I have found the 600 Edelbrock to have a slight better throttle response over the edelbrock 750, which I currently run on my 5.9 with a rpm intake.
Stock distributor for the year of the car I assume and not a Magnum distributor. Use a MP distributor & get the advance springs for it. A FBO limiter plate is a good thing as well. Chrome box or multi spark box for ignition.
Skip the cut outs on the exhaust.
PM me for exhaust
A 904 is nice, I’d use a 904 variant OD trans.
The 3.23’s leave a little on the table, I’d use 3.55’s with the OD trans for cruising. Ether way, you’re not going to max out the rpm’s at the track to take full advantage of the gears in the trans, rear and tires listed. You’ll probably change into third just before the stripe at the end of the 1/4 mile. But should brake 100, not guarantee.
The issues I see….
Turn more rpm than intended for the street, even worse for the Hwy. While I suggest 3.55’s that will turn more rpm, you’ll burn rubber and get to speed a little easier.
I’d run a .038 head gasket instead and use 91/93 octane, it’ll work with your static and cranking compression numbers.
Been there, done that, still doing it, can’t stop doing it.
I suggest a hyd roller cam if 226@050. It’ll work with the 2500 stall.
My wife’s 360 runs trick flow heads, rpm intake, TTI exhaust stem to stern, it’s 11.3-1 and works on 93 octane. Likes a 50/50 race fuel mix a lot.
I’d get a larger radiator that goes from frame rail to frame rail. I run a champion which is fine until it gets to summer time. Florida is HOT.
The car has a 2500 stall, 904, 3.55’s on Mickey T’s flame tread 26X10 tires.
It’s not fast off the line but will leave 60’ plus rubber stretch marks on the pavement and has great top end power that just keeps on going.
Cam used below. Valve lift should be recalculated @ 1.6.
Lift /1.5X1.6= new lift.
Well… IMO
You can use hyper slugs instead. Cheaper lighter while being very durable. Piston slap is a loose fitting piston. Hypers run tighter the forged pistons. .050 is considered max for any quench.
The stock OEM heads are OK at best IMO. With the listed cams lift, a bowl porting, while not needed, would be a nice help and addition to do if your heads are not cracked and I’d bet they are.
On the Hughes cam, I have never seen and advertised and a at .050 number. 212@050 is small but fine for a stock converter.
Find out the weight of the lifter vs others. This is the Magnums second biggest draw back, lifter weight, IMO.
That would be the correct intake to use IMO over the cheaper chink intake and the 650 will provide enough cfm for the job. A 750 is fine as well, I have found the 600 Edelbrock to have a slight better throttle response over the edelbrock 750, which I currently run on my 5.9 with a rpm intake.
Stock distributor for the year of the car I assume and not a Magnum distributor. Use a MP distributor & get the advance springs for it. A FBO limiter plate is a good thing as well. Chrome box or multi spark box for ignition.
Skip the cut outs on the exhaust.
PM me for exhaust
A 904 is nice, I’d use a 904 variant OD trans.
The 3.23’s leave a little on the table, I’d use 3.55’s with the OD trans for cruising. Ether way, you’re not going to max out the rpm’s at the track to take full advantage of the gears in the trans, rear and tires listed. You’ll probably change into third just before the stripe at the end of the 1/4 mile. But should brake 100, not guarantee.
The issues I see….
Turn more rpm than intended for the street, even worse for the Hwy. While I suggest 3.55’s that will turn more rpm, you’ll burn rubber and get to speed a little easier.
I’d run a .038 head gasket instead and use 91/93 octane, it’ll work with your static and cranking compression numbers.
Been there, done that, still doing it, can’t stop doing it.
I suggest a hyd roller cam if 226@050. It’ll work with the 2500 stall.
My wife’s 360 runs trick flow heads, rpm intake, TTI exhaust stem to stern, it’s 11.3-1 and works on 93 octane. Likes a 50/50 race fuel mix a lot.
I’d get a larger radiator that goes from frame rail to frame rail. I run a champion which is fine until it gets to summer time. Florida is HOT.
The car has a 2500 stall, 904, 3.55’s on Mickey T’s flame tread 26X10 tires.
It’s not fast off the line but will leave 60’ plus rubber stretch marks on the pavement and has great top end power that just keeps on going.
Cam used below. Valve lift should be recalculated @ 1.6.
Lift /1.5X1.6= new lift.