Tire shop over torqued lug nuts (1969 Dart). Should I redo it?
My car still had left hand studs on the driver's rear. I replaced them with right hand to keep everthing uniform. I don't know how much torque it took to draw the new studs in bit this was a lot better than doing so without an air wrench.
My new studs were just a hair longer than the originals and I had to pull axle out just a little to get the bearing retainer plate to angle a little to allow the new ones in. They'll work fine but if doing again I would make sure the new studs are exactly the same length.
I used the air wrench just to run the lug nuts on when installing the wheel and final tightened them by hand. i will recheck by hand once car is driven.
If I worked at a shop or on someone elses car I would be sure to use the proper equipment to get the required torque.
![20251022_095131[1].jpg](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/20251022_095131-1-jpg.1716483808/ "20251022_095131[1].jpg")
![20251022_134747[1].jpg](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/20251022_134747-1-jpg.1716483809/ "20251022_134747[1].jpg")
My car still had left hand studs on the driver's rear. I replaced them with right hand to keep everthing uniform. I don't know how much torque it took to draw the new studs in bit this was a lot better than doing so without an air wrench.
My new studs were just a hair longer than the originals and I had to pull axle out just a little to get the bearing retainer plate to angle a little to allow the new ones in. They'll work fine but if doing again I would make sure the new studs are exactly the same length.
I used the air wrench just to run the lug nuts on when installing the wheel and final tightened them by hand. i will recheck by hand once car is driven.
If I worked at a shop or on someone elses car I would be sure to use the proper equipment to get the required torque.