Bondo/fiberglass as the right choice
I know context is a difficult thing for you to understand, but my response was to this post -
The type of weld isn’t specified. It’s not mentioned if this is a seam between two different body panels, a butt weld like on a patch panel repair, or even a structural weld.
No weld has to be covered by fiberglass or bondo for the sake of the weld.
For bodywork, it depends on what it is. A seam, like the factory roof/quarter seams, may need filler. What kind depends on how thick the seam is! A butt weld should be ground smooth and only require a skim of filler. And structural welds can be painted or treated for corrosion protection but should NEVER be covered, because they need to be inspected (think roll cage welds).
On factory seams I use lead, or the modern “body solder” equivalent that is allegedly less toxic. Like at the tail panel here
Ah, so you use duraglass and bondo for seam treatment and as a skim coat like it’s supposed to be used.
Im pretty sure I know the answer to this, but I’m guessing you wouldn’t use fiberglass, metal screen from the hardware store, with bondo, pop rivets etc to make a lower quarter panel right? Like this?
Pretty sure this isn’t something I’d find on one of your restorations.
No data? Of course there’s no data! No one studies this scientifically.
But anyone that’s actually done bodywork and rust repair on classic cars for any amount of time has seen what happens to cars with bondo and fiberglass repairs like yours- they fail. And the result is harder to fix than the original damage.
I know you think your fiberglass, screen and bondo repairs are somehow “special” and different, but every hack that shortcuts real repairs does work exactly like yours. It all fails. Your work isn’t any different than any flipper or con man’s.
I know context is a difficult thing for you to understand, but my response was to this post -
The type of weld isn’t specified. It’s not mentioned if this is a seam between two different body panels, a butt weld like on a patch panel repair, or even a structural weld.
No weld has to be covered by fiberglass or bondo for the sake of the weld.
For bodywork, it depends on what it is. A seam, like the factory roof/quarter seams, may need filler. What kind depends on how thick the seam is! A butt weld should be ground smooth and only require a skim of filler. And structural welds can be painted or treated for corrosion protection but should NEVER be covered, because they need to be inspected (think roll cage welds).
On factory seams I use lead, or the modern “body solder” equivalent that is allegedly less toxic. Like at the tail panel here
Ah, so you use duraglass and bondo for seam treatment and as a skim coat like it’s supposed to be used.
Im pretty sure I know the answer to this, but I’m guessing you wouldn’t use fiberglass, metal screen from the hardware store, with bondo, pop rivets etc to make a lower quarter panel right? Like this?
Pretty sure this isn’t something I’d find on one of your restorations.
No data? Of course there’s no data! No one studies this scientifically.
But anyone that’s actually done bodywork and rust repair on classic cars for any amount of time has seen what happens to cars with bondo and fiberglass repairs like yours- they fail. And the result is harder to fix than the original damage.
I know you think your fiberglass, screen and bondo repairs are somehow “special” and different, but every hack that shortcuts real repairs does work exactly like yours. It all fails. Your work isn’t any different than any flipper or con man’s.