Cool that you finished it. Many people have parts but never get there since takes much time. Put me in the latter group. I put a Holley Commander 950 on my 1965 Chrysler 383, but never got it running right, just trying to idle in the carport. The auto-tuning software I bought helps ($15 from some-guy), but can't drive it to tune since no current tag and insurance. I would get it close, then it would stop running and wouldn't re-run, then I'd find the fuel map with bizarre numbers in the Holley software, like everything got corrupted. That was before even using the auto-tuning program. Holley stopped supporting it years ago and will no longer flash an ECU (Guy named Woody at Holley used to). Stopped fussing with it a few years ago since other priorities and not driving that car.
I put a 36-1 trigger wheel on my 1965 Dart 273, with a Ford VR pickup, and also made a bracket for a Chrysler Hall-effect pickup (for my 2002 3.8L), but haven't used that signal. My plan for ignition is Ford V-8 EDIS box triggering Chevy LS coils per cylinder, with a Holley Commander 950 commanding spark advance to the EDIS (via sawtooth wave), similar to how it commands a GM 8-pin HEI module. For now, fueling is just a BBD carb on 4 bbl manifold. I hope to mod a Magnum V-8 beer-keg manifold to realize cheap MPFI, which "might work" since the head has intake holes ~16 deg off-vertical, close to the manifold vertical holes, though requires some hogging out to pass bent studs. Like most people, lots of parts, but other priorities like home remodeling.
Maybe give up on the Holley stuff (junk?) and go megasquirt or a GM ECU if people are still modding those (BinderPlanet forum). Seems OE stuff is more robust than flashy, pricey after-market. I ran a Holley Pro-jection 2D on my Chrysler 383 for over a decade and was always a problem. Constantly had to tweak the knobs on the analog box, even with O2 feedback box. The harness was made so shoddy that wires pulled out of the crimped terminals (poorly crimped on too-large wire), so had to rush a fix to drive to work (crimp plus solder). The earlier "by MSD" analog boxes were much better made, with robust Weatherpak connectors. Ran the smaller "digital box" for a time, but it seemed quirky, overheating sometimes to stop working. Seems nobody who tried Pro-jection liked it. No MAP sensor, just using TPS as a crude signal to simulate manifold pressure. Only good for drag racing.