Tech: What's your temp?
Installing a gauge into the pan is the most common way of monitoring your transmissions vital signs. Some racer's will install the temperature fitting into the cooling line from the torque converter (front cooling line from converter to cooler). I have found that installing the fitting in the pan works best for me. The fluid in the pan is generally cooler (about 10-15 degrees +/-) than the fluid coming out of the converter. So the readings will not be the same from the two locations.
If you have a cast aluminum pan, and have always wanted to incorporate a gauge, it is very simple. No welding is required, you simply drill the hole, tap the threads and install the provided fitting from your gauge kit. This is to install a mechanical temp gauge (autometer type).
Tools needed:
-1/2" drill
-23/32" drill bit (with reduced shank to fit in your 1/2" drill)
-1/2" x 14 45/64" pipe tap
Keep in mind, pipe taps are tapered. You don't want to run the tap all the way through the hole. The further you take the tap in, the looser the fitting will be, thus creating a situation where your fitting will be too loose and may leak. Cut the threads a little at a time, checking the fitment of the brass fitting as you go.
Installing a gauge into the pan is the most common way of monitoring your transmissions vital signs. Some racer's will install the temperature fitting into the cooling line from the torque converter (front cooling line from converter to cooler). I have found that installing the fitting in the pan works best for me. The fluid in the pan is generally cooler (about 10-15 degrees +/-) than the fluid coming out of the converter. So the readings will not be the same from the two locations.
If you have a cast aluminum pan, and have always wanted to incorporate a gauge, it is very simple. No welding is required, you simply drill the hole, tap the threads and install the provided fitting from your gauge kit. This is to install a mechanical temp gauge (autometer type).
Tools needed:
-1/2" drill
-23/32" drill bit (with reduced shank to fit in your 1/2" drill)
-1/2" x 14 45/64" pipe tap
Keep in mind, pipe taps are tapered. You don't want to run the tap all the way through the hole. The further you take the tap in, the looser the fitting will be, thus creating a situation where your fitting will be too loose and may leak. Cut the threads a little at a time, checking the fitment of the brass fitting as you go.
