spring relocation

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340 swinger

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Anybody out there done a spring relocation lately? Mine is a 72 swinger and am having trouble hooking up. Tried various tires but am limited to tire width. How much of a head ache is it to gain the extra 3 inches with a spring relocation kit and is it really worth the trouble?
72 limelite swinger, with 69 340 x heads 30 over forged pistons, steel crank, .509 purple cam, 870 double pump, 150 hp nos power shot, pertronics electronic ignition, 727 with stage 3 shift kit, manual valve body, holley blue fuel pump, line lock, frame connectors, drive shaft loop and exhaust cut outs.
 
Stock springs and stock snubber. I have to baby it until 3rd gear so my 60' and e.t is really bad.
 
If you do decide to relocate your springs I highly recomend that you buy the kit from Bill at www.thecarfarm.com
I just bought my A body kit from him which I will be installing in the spring, and I'm very pleased with both the quality of the kit and his service.
Ted
 
I second the kit from the "Car Farm." Quality kit. It takes time to do the install but you will be happy with the results and you can fit large tires! Jared
 
Before you under take moving the springs inboard, why don't you try some new springs and an adjustable snubber or cal-tracs.

You can buy SS springs and an adjustable pinion snubber with new longer shocks for $350 of bolt on parts. A set of caltracs with the Caltrac springs will cost more ($600-700) but a lot of racers swear by them. Either one of these setup will work much better than stock springs and pinion snubber.
How close is the top of your pinion snubber from the floor of the car? Mine is adjusted so it has less than 1/2" gap. If you have a hard launching automatic or a stick car it is supposed to be adjusted so there is no gap between them.

Either one of these upgrades is stuff you will need on the car even if you relocate springs at a later date.

just my $.02

Bob
 
Any idea on pinion angle. That would be the first place to start IMHO. If that is wrong or out of whack, you'll be chasing your tail.

Spring relocation to the frame is a decent idea. To maximize the relocation, you really need to mini-tub it. If you don't want or plan to mini-tub, get the offset shackle kit. The offset kit will get you an inch or so of space, at least to the stock inner wheel well.
 
Thanks for the info. Sitting in the drivers seat my snubber is about 3" from floor. Its a stock snubber though.
 
i just installed caltracts and relocated the spings with the MP kit. Im running a 9" and a turbo400 but ill post up when i shake down the car to report back how well it works. The mopar relocation kit worked fine though. Its a an easy kit just very time consuming if you want it to look nice.
 
340 Swinger - my first new car.
I don't think you need relocation kit etc. but you do need some changes to make it hook. I'm running a 68 Dart with ±500ponies and mine will hook to the point of lifting the front wheels on launch - and my springs are in the stock location running mid 11s.
My suggestions: buy a set of comp eng 3 way adjustable shocks and set the fronts at 80/20 and the rears at 60/40 setting. add a set of MT ET Street radials in the 255/60 size range. if you are still not hooking then add a set of caltracs.
 
used SS springs on a few cars with great results,if you're racing it.
Also used the relocation kit.You can fit 11.5X 28's with a 5" backspace wheel with a little mod to the front edge of the wheelwell.(welding,metal finishing,paint matching etc)
nice look,and big tires..but alot of work too,I wouldn't do it unless your serious about racing it or just need that look!
SS springs and a good adj snubber like has been said by the guys here,and some tires of course should get the job done.
just my opinion....good luck!
 
oh yeah and like a few have said here...get that snubber no further than 1/2 from the floor...When it hits it plants the tires..hard!
I would re just it for alot of street driving though..cause a big bump in the road can make it hit too....
 
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