Small block mockup in early, early skinny A-body!
"More details"
I already posted a thread in "Show Me Your A-Body", and I don't want to repeat myself. Here's a couple of pics:
"Cool, how much difference is there between the 63 threw 66 compared to the 62 and down. Is it a lot?"
I don't know about later models, but the '60-'62 Valiant and Lancer had about 28 inches between the inner fenderwells/shock towers, and the exhaust manifolds clear each side by about 3/4". It's really tight where the left side head pipe runs past the steering box. I used a stock K-member with a Schumacher mount and torque strap to hold the engine still; otherwise I think it would hit the body at idle. The guys at Wildcat Mopars hooked me up with some manifolds that they knew would clear - they'd done this swap before. They are Chrysler manifolds, but I forget the part number and application. I think I remember the Wildcat guys saying those manifolds were the only ones that would work. The largest exhaust pipe that would clear the steering box was 2-1/4".
I'd be curious what the fenderwell measurement is on the '63s - '66s and on the later models, if somebody would be so kind as to measure theirs and let us know.
"i hear the main difference is the heater on the outside of the firewall.. is that the only real problem??"
Yep, had to get rid of the heater. I live in California. Your temperature may vary.
"Firewall PIX PLEASE!"
Nothing special about the firewall. Just removed the heater box and blower, stripped and painted the firewall and had stainless covers cut for the blower and heater box holes. The stock distributor clears fine.
I probably could have used a 904, but I decided to go with a 727, so I raised the tranny hump at the same time I replaced the front floors. The rear end is a narrow 8-3/4" off a Duster V8 with a Dana Power-Lock 3.73 posi. Big front and rear sway bars; 15 X 8" wheels. Big welded subframe connectors and the Ma Mopar leaf spring relocation kit to make room for the big tires in the rear. The Kelsey-Hayes 4-piston front discs and 10-1/2"(?) rear drums off that same Duster. The engine has forged rods and pistons, ported "J" heads, balanced, and right now I'm running a Performer intake with a big ThermoQuad, and I like the way it runs. I'm using a 2,000-stall torque converter. That's about it. If I ever get my act together, I'd like to take it to the strip.
"More details"
I already posted a thread in "Show Me Your A-Body", and I don't want to repeat myself. Here's a couple of pics:
"Cool, how much difference is there between the 63 threw 66 compared to the 62 and down. Is it a lot?"
I don't know about later models, but the '60-'62 Valiant and Lancer had about 28 inches between the inner fenderwells/shock towers, and the exhaust manifolds clear each side by about 3/4". It's really tight where the left side head pipe runs past the steering box. I used a stock K-member with a Schumacher mount and torque strap to hold the engine still; otherwise I think it would hit the body at idle. The guys at Wildcat Mopars hooked me up with some manifolds that they knew would clear - they'd done this swap before. They are Chrysler manifolds, but I forget the part number and application. I think I remember the Wildcat guys saying those manifolds were the only ones that would work. The largest exhaust pipe that would clear the steering box was 2-1/4".
I'd be curious what the fenderwell measurement is on the '63s - '66s and on the later models, if somebody would be so kind as to measure theirs and let us know.
"i hear the main difference is the heater on the outside of the firewall.. is that the only real problem??"
Yep, had to get rid of the heater. I live in California. Your temperature may vary.
"Firewall PIX PLEASE!"
Nothing special about the firewall. Just removed the heater box and blower, stripped and painted the firewall and had stainless covers cut for the blower and heater box holes. The stock distributor clears fine.
I probably could have used a 904, but I decided to go with a 727, so I raised the tranny hump at the same time I replaced the front floors. The rear end is a narrow 8-3/4" off a Duster V8 with a Dana Power-Lock 3.73 posi. Big front and rear sway bars; 15 X 8" wheels. Big welded subframe connectors and the Ma Mopar leaf spring relocation kit to make room for the big tires in the rear. The Kelsey-Hayes 4-piston front discs and 10-1/2"(?) rear drums off that same Duster. The engine has forged rods and pistons, ported "J" heads, balanced, and right now I'm running a Performer intake with a big ThermoQuad, and I like the way it runs. I'm using a 2,000-stall torque converter. That's about it. If I ever get my act together, I'd like to take it to the strip.
