temp paint...

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DBrown

hold my beer...
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I am wanting to know if there is any kind of paint/primer that might come in a rattle can that will not have to be completely taken off to repaint the car later?

what I am wanting to do is work my way over the car one part at a time. like pulling the front end apart, prepping and doing any body work then shooting a couple of coats of primer and paint then reinstalling the parts. after I get over the whole car I want to basicly sand down the exterior and paint it all at once to make it look consistant.

this is my first attempt at paint and I just want to make sure I don't waist my time with some thing I have to completely redo.
 
You will need to buy a compressor, gun, and some type of moisture control filter eventually if you are going to paint the car.....why not buy those first and use them to prime the parts as you go.

Problem is primers are not usually good in the elements (UV, rain, etc...). Depends on the quality you want in the paint job?? (very subjective)
 
You Should Always E-Poxy The Parts Or Whole Car First. Then A High Build Pimer Second. You Will Need To Primer Twice Then A Scratch Coat To Finish Blocking.
 
You will need to buy a compressor, gun, and some type of moisture control filter
Click to expand...

I already have all that stuff, I was just looking for something a little less involved.

I was already warned about primers not doing well exposed for a long time and that is why I was wanting to just throw down a cheap coat of paint as I did some body work.
 
so do you recommend the e-poxy being applied before anything, even any filler?

also what form can I get the e-poxy primer? rattle can or just for a spray gun?
 
If you want to "throw down a cheap coat of paint" it will need to come off before painting to prevent potential adhesion probs.....

Are you taking the car down to bare metal?? Well, we use DP90 epoxy, reduced 4-1. Locally for me it's about $100/gal with reducer ................doesnt come in rattle can that I know of
 
I used SEM Self Etching Primer on a set of fender skirts and just painted body color over them and they came out fine. Also used it on other projects in the past with good results.

It's the stuff that comes in a White and Purpleish can that runs around 12 bucks a can at the parts store

http://www.touchup-paint.com/selfetch.gif
 
The SEM self etching primer is good stuff, it will be a lot of cans for a whole car......I dont think it has good UV resistance.
 
one of the problems I have is rust, this is why I am wanting to just get something on there. I would like to go down to bare metal, but I have read some things that say you don't always have to. this is kind of why I am asking the question of what I can use to paint with. I don't want to put any time into pulling the parts cleaning them up and then having to do it all over again because the new paint doesn't work with the old paint.

I have a feeling you guys are going to tell me to just go ahead and paint the parts with the stuff I plan to paint the car with in the end...am I right?

if so what do y'all recommend?
 
If rust is a problem.......it needs to go down to bare metal in those area. If you take care of the rust areas but the paint in the other areas looks good it doesn't all have to come off. Once the car is sanded (rust fixed, old paint sanded) use the Epoxy primer (it's a sealer coat) to separate the old paint from the new. Before doing any filler

Is this car a daily driver?? Is it in a garage or shop??

Yes use the products you are gonna use in the end.....why would you want to do it twice?? Adhesion probs can occur when you mix product lines
 
I have a garage that I am working out of at my house but it is not inside everynight...(2 car garage,71 bronco in one bay and wife owns other bay)...but I plan to pull it in and out as nessary.

my main goal was to pull so many parts on a friday night. work them over the weekend, then reinstall sunday night untill the body is ready for the finish paint job. it is starting to look a little rough around the edges and I just wanted it to look a little better while I am working on getting the body reworked.

so what your recommeding is to go with a coat of epoxy primer, fill/fix any dents, then shoot a second coat of primer and then paint with whatever type of paint I plan to use?

is there any type of paint that will work better for the long run?

I am guessing I can hold off on the clear until I am ready for the final coat?
 
Are you gonna pull all the glass over the weekend??? Where are the rust problems?? If you pull the fenders off over the weekend and put them back on, they will need to be pulled again to take off the doors. Do you want to do all the jams, core support, engine compartment, interior, door handles, trim??

I would do the car at one time pull all the trim, door handles, glass etc....deal with all the rust and dents (hammer/dolly), sand the old paint down (or remove it), use DP90 epoxy primer. Do your filler work, gaps on doors/fender/hood and then hi-build primer.

Problems being rust.....you may find a bunch hidden under that paint, then panel replacement and patch panel work. Or terrible prior work.......license plate for patch panel type stuff

check out autobody101.com

Oh yeah.....if you use base/clear, you cant wait to do the clear. The clear seals the paint
 
I planed to pull the glass last when I go to paint the body because I have no rust issues around the glass.

the fenders do not need to be pulled to take the doors off. I have already replaced a door by pulling the door off the hinge and leaving the hinge on the jam.

as far as the engine bay goes I plan to pull the motor when the 833 goes in. I plan to paint that then. I have already had most of the car apart even pulling the interior to replace carpet and the dash pad and found a bad floor pan then I ground out the bubbling bondo in the rear quarters to find I need to do some metal work there. the trunk, thank god, is in good shape only a little suface rust in places.

my thing is I don't want to have 2 projects completely torn apart at the same time. I like being able to take the car out from time to time. and I am just looking for a way that I can slowly move my way threw it with out having it down for a year.
 
Panel alignment is best done from the quarter-door then door-fender, or from the quarters forward was my point with the door and fenders.

You will be able to piece the work together and it will probably turn out pretty good. Your final product will be dictated by the prep and bodywork you do now, so take your time to make things right. :toothy10:
 
Panel alignment is best done from the quarter-door then door-fender, or from the quarters forward was my point with the door and fenders.
Click to expand...

yeah, I planned to tweek all the parts before I get too far into things.

thanks for the advice, I plan to start adjusting parts this week end. I also got the strikers to fix. I take some pictures as I go!
 
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