Holley help.

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AdamR

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I put my 650 double pumper on today. I rebuilt it a year ago and just got around to trying it. The car wont run any lower then 2000rpms because the boosters a dripping pretty bad. I changes floated level and fuel pressure. Niether made a differance. Any ideas ?
 
I rebuilt it a year ago and just got around to trying it.

Is it possible that you could have some crap in the needle and seat from sitting and letting it bleed by
 
My car won't run with those straight leg Holley boosters under 2000 rpm either. It may have something to do with the small carb, and high velocity but I've got to use the downleg boosters in any carb on my engine.
 
yea, the dog leg boosters are better....i have straight boosters on my 650 dp and it will iddle down to 700 rpm...hey adam, give that carb to me, it sounds like your meetering plate could be warped (verry common) causing the fuel to leak by and being sucked into the boosters....remember all the work i did to mine (recurfacing the body)
 
had the same problem sent that piece of junk in the bin... it was also a 650DP i tried everything and that carb never ever gott any better, may be that i am a useles mecanick but i think that a carb should realy do something when you adjust it but this one never ever cared for me when i tried to make it work..
 
This carb was on the car 3 or 4 years ago. I swiped a bowl from it when I stripped one out on my my 850. It ran fine then. I'm thinking I either messed u the rebuild or theres dirt in the needle/seat or air bleeds.
 
Well I got it running. It was either crap in the carb or a bad base plate gasket. I pulled it apart sprayed it down and put it back together.

It idles at 900rpm but when I would drop it in to gear the rpms would drop way down and it would stll. I raised the idle up to about 1200 (not really an idle anymore) and dropping it in get it would drop down to 800.

I figured that sounded more like a timing issue so I swapped in my FBO stage 2 dist and coil. Set the timing at 34* @ 3000rpm were Don told me to. Checked the initial and it was at 18 just were he said it should be. Thanks Don !

Fire the car back up 800 rpm idle in park and 750 in gear. Perfect.

Now I just need to figure 3 things out.

1. The driver side air mixture screw doesnt do anything. Even if its turned all the way in. Passenger side works fine. Pulled the screw out and sprayed some carb cleaner in it. No differance.

2. Nasty stumble between idle and about 2000 rpms. It wants to die if you rev it. Over 2000 rpms no stumble.

3. part throttle seems a bit rough. While timing the car I had it set at 3000 rpms sounded like it was surging.

Any ideas?
 
The fact that it was rebuilt a while should be forgotten. It sounds like something got in it and died in there. Very possible a warped boody and/or meterring block too. If the right side mixture screw goes in all the way, does it die? I would remove the left side mix screw, and using that long tube, shoot carb clean back into the passages. You should see bubbles/mist from the air bleeds on top, plus hear it coming out in the bowl, and throttle bore. I think whatever was in the needle and seat, is most likely all thru it now..The idle passages are the first to get comtaminated after the needle/seats. I'd go completely thru it again, and check stuff with a straight edge..
 
on the stumble issue, if you're running a single plane manifold you may try a smaller secondary squirter nozzle it worked for me
 
if it sat for 3-4years check the power valve ...diaphram is probably dried out and passing fuel (the surge) and most likely not opening up at the proper vacuum too
 
Yup fresh rebuild. I tore it a part on Wednesday andsprayed all the passages down so I know its not plugged up. I think the problem before was a wrong base plate gasket. The kit I bought had 4 differant ones.

My guess is a warped body or metering blocks.
 
moper said:
If the right side mixture screw goes in all the way, does it die?

Yes if I turn the right side all the way in the car dies. Driver side screw doesnt do anything.


I pulled bolth screws out after getting it to idle and blew them clean. carb cleaner shot right out of the air bleeds.[/quote]
 
Fixed it.It runs good now. The body was warped like a taco. I filed everything down flat, cleaned it out a million times and rebuilt it again. Bolted it up and it started as soon as I turned the key. I need to lower the float level alittle bit but thats all.

I still have a slight hesatation right off idle but it may be float level.
 
Sounds like the accel pump might need to be tweeked a bit. Is the accel. pump arm touching the cam at closed throttle or does it have a bit of clearance?
What else did you get done this weekend?
 
I'll check the clearance. Any idea of how much it should have ?

The only other thing that got done was the bttery box that I dont like.

The rest of my stuff showed up today. throttle return springs. long studs, Screw in valve stems and rims screws. I also just cut my rear firewall. All thats left is the cover for the sump and it should pass tech no problem. I have tons of parts now. Just need the time to get it all done.
 
This comes from here

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/TI-221.html

CARBURETOR
ACCELERATOR PUMP SYSTEM

The accelerator pump system consists of three main components: the pump
diaphragm, the pump cam and the pump nozzle. This is the carburetor system
that is most responsible for having good, crisp, off-idle throttle response.
Its purpose is to inject a certain amount of fuel down the throttle bores
when the throttle is opened. By accomplishing this purpose it acts to
smooth the transition between the idle and main circuits so that no stumble,
hesitation or sluggishness will be evident during this transition phase.


The first adjustment to check is the clearance between the pump operating
lever and the pump diaphragm cover's arm, at wide open throttle. This
clearance should be around .015". The purpose for this clearance is to
assure that the pump diaphragm is never stretched to its maximum limit
at wide open throttle. This will cause premature pump failure. Once this
clearance has been set take a good look at the pump linkage and work
the throttle. Make sure that the accelerator pump arm is being activated
the moment that the throttle begins to move. This will assure that pump
response will be instantaneous to the movement of the throttle. These
adjustments can be made by turning the accelerator pump adjusting
screw that is located on the accelerator pump arm together with the
pump override spring and lock nut.


The amount of fuel that can be delivered by one accelerator pump stroke
is determined by the pump's capacity and the profile of the pump cam.
The period of time that it will take for this pre-determined amount of
fuel to be delivered is affected by the pump nozzle size.


A larger pump nozzle will allow this fuel to be delivered much sooner
than a smaller pump nozzle. If you need more pump shot sooner, then
a larger pump nozzle size is required. During acceleration tests, if you
notice that the car first hesitates and then picks up, it's a sure bet
that the pump nozzle size should be increased. A backfire (lean condition)
on acceleration also calls for a step up in pump nozzle size. Conversely,
if off-idle acceleration does not feel crisp or clean, then the pump
nozzle size may already be too large. In this case a smaller
size is required.


Holley accelerator pump nozzles are stamped with a number which
indicates the drilled pump hole size. For example, a pump nozzle
stamped "35" is drilled .035". Pump nozzle sizes are available from
.025" to .052". Please note that whenever a .040" or larger accelerator
pump nozzle is installed the "hollow" pump nozzle screw, P/N 26-12,
should also be used. This screw will allow more fuel to flow to the
pump nozzle, assuring that the pump nozzle itself will be the limiting
restriction in the accelerator pump fuel supply system.






Accelerator Pump System.
Large view - 889 x 783 - 26k




NOTE: When changing the pump nozzle it's best to jump three sizes. For
example if there's currently a off-line hesitation with #28 (.028")
pump nozzle, try a #31(.031") pump nozzle. If you must use a #37 (.037")
or larger pump nozzle, then also use a 50cc pump.


The same applies to the accelerator pump cams. Once a pump nozzle size
selection has been made the accelerator pump system can be further
tailored with the pump cam. Holley offers an assortment of different
pump cams, each with uniquely different lift and duration profiles,
that are available under Holley P/N 20-12. Switching cams will directly
affect the movement of the accelerator pump lever and, subsequently,
the amount of fuel available at the pump nozzle. Lay out the pump cams
side by side and note the profile differences. This little exercise may
help to better explain the differences between the cams and their
effect on pump action.


Installing a pump cam is straighfforward. It's a simple matter of
loosening one screw, placing the new pump cam next to the throttle
lever and tightening it up. There are two and sometimes three holes
in each pump cam, numbered 1, 2 and 3. Placing the screw in position
#1 activates the accelerator pump a little early, allowing full use
of the pump's capacity. Generally, vehicles which normally run at
lower idle speeds (600 or 700 RPM) find this position more useful
because they can have a good pump shot available coming right off
this relatively low idle. Positions #2 and #3 delay the pump action,
relatively speaking. These two cam positions are good for engines
that idle around 1000 RPM and above. Repositioning the cam in this
way makes allowance for the extra throttle rotation required to
maintain the relatively higher idle setting. Pump arm adjustment and
clearance should be checked and verified each and every time the
pump cam and/or pump cam position is changed:


Lastly, a 50cc accelerator pump conversion kit is available under
Holley P/N 20-11 when maximum pump capacity is desired.
 
Cool, Im going to print it out and look over the carb again. I have it running pretty good right now. Just a tiny hesitation. I think it may need bigger then the #28 squirter.
 
Just ordered a #31 squirter to replace the 28 thats in it. From what I've read that sounds like the problem. I have some pump cams to so I can try a few of them.
 
Hey Adam if the #31 squirter don't do it it could be just lean. Try upping the primary jets 1 or 2 sizes. Holley's are the touchiest I've ever seen on requiring the right jet sizes.
 
Thanks Fishy. I'll keep that in mind. It seems to be jetted kinda lean 67 primary and 76 Sec. No power valve in the secondary side either.
 
Just got my squirters today. I'll get them in tomarrow. It must be lean. Seems like its surging at cruise rpms and I had to turn the air mixture screw out about 3-1/2 turns to get the best idle.
 
I didnt get to test drive but the hesitation is gone. Replace the squirters with 31s and upped the Primary jets from 67 to 70s.
 
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