You may end up with something like 83 and 85 but you'll have to look at the heat marks on the plugs after you make a pass or two. When the fuel curve is correct the plug threads will have the first two threads from the chamber, will be dry and then they will look wet on the rest of the threads. At this point you'll need to look at the 60' times. Another way that you can tune is keep adding jet until the 60' times slow, then go back to what gave you the best 60'. You'll have to keep a log as you may change the jets 6 -8 times before you get it right. Do you have adjustable air bleeds in the HP carb? If so you'll need a air bleed kit to really fine tune the engine and there may be a additional few tenths. From what I've found the air bleeds that we run are, idle circuit 72-78 drill and 30-32 on the power circuit. The idle circuit is the outer most 4 bleeds and the power is the inner most 4 bleeds.
What this is going to do is lean the engine down but with the large jet it will make up the difference. Also too the engine can't get anymore fuel to it than what the jet will allow to pass through, so a larger jet will allow more fuel to the engine and will make more power. After you get a good base line then moveing the air bleeds up or down a couple of drill sizes will be seen in the ET's for better or worse, but work one side at a time. Like adjust the idle side first and then the power side. You want to run the air bleed that gives you the best ET and MPH, as you may have a air bleed that gives you the same ET but the MPH may be off. This will be where the engine is happiest.