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drgrcr3603

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finally got the dart on the road and within 15 miles wiped the camshaft(mopar performance 557 flat tappet)brand new motor been working on car for two years and still cant go play anyone else have problems with mopar perf. cams?:cheers:
 
440 alluminum head ,max wedge ported 800 double pump ,mallory comp 140 fuel pump with barry grant regulater csi billit remote water pump and alluminum radiaterall in my 67 dart 2 door sedan ,26 thousand dollars laterand still cant play but im determind to be at the nats in 3 weeks in columbus (my home town)
 
I have had two Mopars and one Summit and have had no problems. If you are running dual valve springs some people bring the cam using only the outer spring. Then install the inner spring later. Did you prime the motor before you fired it up? Did you use plenty of cam break in lube?
 
mullinax95 said:
If you are running dual valve springs some people bring the cam using only the outer spring. Then install the inner spring later. Did you prime the motor before you fired it up? Did you use plenty of cam break in lube?
Click to expand...

X2! Plenty of break in lube on the cam itself? Did you have to crank it excessivley before it fired up?
 
motor was primed ,had running for about three months breaking in but wasnt ready to drive the car yet,got everything else finished took it for the first easy cruise and started hear exsesive valve train noice , reajusted valves for the third time and found three lobes with 100 thousanths clearance valves call for 28 and 32 ,had plenty of cam lube and have alredy changed oil and filter after breakin had no metal in filter everything looked good,ive been racing supergas for the last 15 years and have never wiped a camim estimating this moter to be making approxmitly 500 hp
 
moter fired right up cam was degreed at 110 center line specd out perfect
 
also has 190 lbs seat presure at 2 inch installed hight on the valve springs just as they are suppose to be
 
To qoute 68 Sedan, Damn. Any bent pushrods? Was retainer to valve guide clearance checked?
 
no bent push rods , everything was checked got the same rockers that i run on the supergas car,going to tear apart tomarrow to see what i find
 
not sure what com manufacture to go with after reading all the bad stories but im leaning on going to hydrolic for the street so i can have pease of mind
 
any how the car looks pretty with its 21/33 rear tires and the shiny new orange crush paint
 
drgrcr, I wiped an exhaust lobe out on the same cam. I am also contemplating retrofitting a hydraulic roller setup or using the EDM lifters with a custom ground solid cam. Let us know what you decide to go with.
 
The Corvette guys have been bitching about this very same thing for years! It's not the cam, or the install procedure that is ruining the camshafts, it the lack of zinc in modern motor oil. You MUST use an oil with zinc when breaking in a new cam. There are still oils available with zinc (Shell Rotella comes to mind) but if you can't get oil with zinc, use a zinc additive during break in.
Sorry for all your trouble. The car sounds real nice.

George
 
I killed engine #1 within 20 miles of driving too.... Lord willing, I break-in the new engine for my Barracuda tomorrow afternoon. I have 5 qts. of Joe Gibbs racing oil ready to pour in with all the Zinc I need. Plus I know the drill as to proper break-in.

If this one wipes out, I'm dropping the slant 6 from my Dart in. :thebirdm:
 
FASTBACK340 said:
I killed engine #1 within 20 miles of driving too.... Lord willing, I break-in the new engine for my Barracuda tomorrow afternoon. I have 5 qts. of Joe Gibbs racing oil ready to pour in with all the Zinc I need. Plus I know the drill as to proper break-in.

If this one wipes out, I'm dropping the slant 6 from my Dart in. :thebirdm:
Click to expand...

good luck john.
 
Although the Crane cam in my last build appears to fine so far, all my builds from here on out will have a roller wether hydraulic or solid.

I was so freakin' paranoid on this last build. I heard a tick and started to freak but it was just a header leak. It's just not worth the aggravation anymore.
 
ramcharger said:
Although the Crane cam in my last build appears to fine so far, all my builds from here on out will have a roller wether hydraulic or solid.

I was so freakin' paranoid on this last build. I heard a tick and started to freak but it was just a header leak. It's just not worth the aggravation anymore.
Click to expand...

I agree. I am lucky enough to have a roller cam block, so next build is a 408 roller. I heard about breaking in cams and running it for 100-500 miles on 1.3 rockers for cams/springs with strong seat pressures. Time to read more into it.:read2:
 
what is this zinc and why are they taking it out of the oil ,is it still needed after break in? thanks for all the replies
 
It isn't necessary after cam break in as much as it is during break in of a new cam. I ran my old 72 Corvette (never rebuilt motor) for almost 40,000 miles with the low zinc or no zinc oil, but I would NEVER even try to run a new engine without it. You'll damage the camshaft for sure.

George
 
drgr,

The engine oil suppliers have been pulling the zinc phosphates out of the oils by behest of the EPA. Reason being is that when an engine gets some mileage and starts buning oil, these zinc phosphates tend to plug up catalytic converters.

Cam manufactures are aware of this and do provide and reccomend the use of oil fortifiers to add to your oil upon break-in and there are also many aftermarket suppliers of the above.

I've got an engine right now that just developed a tick and after reading your post I'm gona tear off the manifold tonight or tomorrow and take a peak as I need to do it anyway (that's in my Uh Oh.... thread. I was using Valvoline VR1 and they have assured me that the zinc phospate content of this oil is over 1000ppm IIRC, but like I said, I'm getting paranoid about all this.
 
it is a good idea to run oil with the zinc content all the time in our flat tppet motors.... not just for break in
 
I just wiped out an MP484 114 a couple of weeks ago in my 383. I can totally relate to your frustration! I am fed up and done with hydraulic & solid lifters. I just ordered a stoker with a solid roller cam so I will not have to deal with wiped out cam lobes again. I did take the lifter into work on Friday to check the hardness. It looks like they are case hardend, the side was around 55 rockwall and the worn center portion was around 43. I still have to cross section and check the thickness of the case yet. I have a claim in with the local dealer where I bought it for new seals / gaskets, cam and oil pump. I should know next week. I wish you luck with what ever you deceide to do.
 
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