Early A TTI Headers

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holy crap. $279.00 on top of an $1100 pair pf headders.. hell the dougs sound better and better everyday...
 
holy crap. $279.00 on top of an $1100 pair pf headders.. hell the dougs sound better and better everyday...

Where do you get $1100 for tti's?

They list for $761 ceramic coated + PowerMaster starter $247= 1008 total.

Doug's are $819 ceramic coated + mopar mini starter (depends if you have one already and what you want to spend)

Price difference $189.......advantage is Doug's apples to apples as far as coatings

I have heard that a 10.5" clutch is a problem with Doug's and same for Power steering. And the TTi's are one piece and do not have a jointed piece. Plus TTI's have 3" collectors available Doug's are 2.5" only.

Advantage as far as install is up for debate. Mine were a pain in the *** in a big way but everything turned out good. This is where Doug's design might shine. I had to use a Flaming River U-joint coupler ($169) that was milled to get rid of the pot coupler which gets toasted from the headers heat. I don't know about Doug's in this regard. Plus threading the t-bars was a pain.

The early a bodies are a mess no matter how you look at it for step down style headers.



Thanks for the starter update anyways.

You still going fenderwell after seeing my setup at Spring Fling? LOL:-D
 
last price i saw when they first came out was up around $1000. maybe they have come down some since then.
 
what ever happend to spit fire is he still around ??? i had custom headers built for my 66 2 in tubes,,stahl adaprt plates about 8 years ago cost then was 850.00 then 300.00 for cercamic coating,,,yikes,,
 
I just got a set for my '65 Barracuda 340. Paid $100 for them used. I havent installed them as of yet, but compared to the price of TTIs you can't beat it.
 
Last thing I heard was he was selling them for $225 COD. You can reach him at 1-479-650-9989. You can also e-mail him at sptfirehdrs01@cox.net. I think this was back in early 2007, and he was gearing up for production.

I did get a set from him about a year and a half ago, but not sure if he is still doing them.
 
Well guys, I can always count on constructive opinions from members on this site. For everyone's information I took the cost of the headers and the starter off the TTI web site. It's neither here nor there to me what the Spitfires or the Dougs cost. They are for sale with the starter. If you don't agree with what I'm asking so be it. I'll bet you guys would be falling all over yourselves to get to your keyboard if I was asking $200....
 
What are headers worth for Horsepower? 15hp for aprox $800.??

Why bother for a street driven car.

I am using the factory 273 exhaust manifolds,
I took the car to a local Midas, and had duals installed,
the pipes go from the stock size {1 7/8"} to 2 1/4".

My engine is a 318, with # 302 heads,
and a Mopar Performance .430/.450 cam.

I am not drag racing the car, with a 410 cid engine built to make every last
inch of Torque, or HP.

Be honest, is your car going to be needing an extra 10-20 hp?

A good dual system, is worth a lot of HP, compared to single exhaust.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ud8mci4rjFU
 
Well it all depends on the engine car combo. I had a very radical 273. I even tried porting and opened to the max the stock manifolds, ran 2 1/4 pipes and muffs back in the day. Then I went to fenderwells I picked up 55 hp at 7500 rpm and about 4500 power was up 22 hp.

Now I run a 416 that is very stout, I can not even imagine making that think choked up with stock ex. I run the TTIs and 3" pipes. What comes i nmust get out, and you can not flow that much air on those stockers. It is a waste of $$ after you have custom head work, large intake, carb et. It was a bottle neck for me.

I will tell ya, is was a mother #%#%@ to put them on. I also had an issue that they guys at TTI said they had not hear. You can not get the top trans bolt in to the trans on the driver side that comes in from the front, the larger 7/16" bolt. When it is in the starter housing hits it. I have moved in every direction the clock on the starter and there just is not enough room.

I even milled the head of the bolt thiner, tried a pan head, hex head bolt and tried best I could to mill the face of the block to allow the bolt to sit farther in away from the starter. it is a no go!

If you have the engine on the stand I could have shaved a 1/4" from the block and it would have made it.

Now maybe it is a combo of 2 things?

1. My block is very think on the casting, I looked at the ol 273 and a 318 and this 340 is much thcker on the block for both side front trans bolts.
2. I also run a 727 not a 904. There is about no room at all.

I had to make an access panel in the floor board to hook the kinkage, trans lines etc. Routing of the floor shifter cable wa very tuff too. I made it removable so that the carpet can be pulled back for service etc.

Lastly, they supply a stud/thin nut for the top starter bolt. You have to somehow get the nut started with the starter part way over the stud, then gradually work the starter back as you tighten. Well this took about 5 hrs and I had to turn an 1/8 at a time, once from under the car, the on top, then under etc. you get the pic. All this with the steering and master still out of the car to allow some access from top.

Worst headers I have every seen to put on. Bottom line, there is no room in a 64 with a 727 and power steering. Looks bitchen, works great once in, but man you need a lot of beer.. .the Beer was more than the heasders LOL..

So to your point, well I guess some body needs to take a 500 + hp stroker and put it on a dyno with stcok ex to test the power diff VS the TTIs.

Anyway great point you made..
 
Well it all depends on the engine car combo. I had a very radical 273. I even tried porting and opened to the max the stock manifolds, ran 2 1/4 pipes and muffs back in the day. Then I went to fenderwells I picked up 55 hp at 7500 rpm and about 4500 power was up 22 hp.

Now I run a 416 that is very stout, I can not even imagine making that think choked up with stock ex. I run the TTIs and 3" pipes. What comes i nmust get out, and you can not flow that much air on those stockers. It is a waste of $$ after you have custom head work, large intake, carb et. It was a bottle neck for me.

I will tell ya, is was a mother #%#%@ to put them on. I also had an issue that they guys at TTI said they had not hear. You can not get the top trans bolt in to the trans on the driver side that comes in from the front, the larger 7/16" bolt. When it is in the starter housing hits it. I have moved in every direction the clock on the starter and there just is not enough room.

I even milled the head of the bolt thiner, tried a pan head, hex head bolt and tried best I could to mill the face of the block to allow the bolt to sit farther in away from the starter. it is a no go!

If you have the engine on the stand I could have shaved a 1/4" from the block and it would have made it.

Now maybe it is a combo of 2 things?

1. My block is very think on the casting, I looked at the ol 273 and a 318 and this 340 is much thcker on the block for both side front trans bolts.
2. I also run a 727 not a 904. There is about no room at all.

I had to make an access panel in the floor board to hook the kinkage, trans lines etc. Routing of the floor shifter cable wa very tuff too. I made it removable so that the carpet can be pulled back for service etc.

Lastly, they supply a stud/thin nut for the top starter bolt. You have to somehow get the nut started with the starter part way over the stud, then gradually work the starter back as you tighten. Well this took about 5 hrs and I had to turn an 1/8 at a time, once from under the car, the on top, then under etc. you get the pic. All this with the steering and master still out of the car to allow some access from top.

Worst headers I have every seen to put on. Bottom line, there is no room in a 64 with a 727 and power steering. Looks bitchen, works great once in, but man you need a lot of beer.. .the Beer was more than the heasders LOL..

So to your point, well I guess some body needs to take a 500 + hp stroker and put it on a dyno with stcok ex to test the power diff VS the TTIs.

Anyway great point you made..


Fenderwell Headers is the way to go
 
Well guys, I can always count on constructive opinions from members on this site. For everyone's information I took the cost of the headers and the starter off the TTI web site. It's neither here nor there to me what the Spitfires or the Dougs cost. They are for sale with the starter. If you don't agree with what I'm asking so be it. I'll bet you guys would be falling all over yourselves to get to your keyboard if I was asking $200....

where did this come from? you listed this under Early A Body Discussions, and nowhere in the post did you say what you were asking. sorry if im misreading what youre saying, but from my point of reading it, you come off a little rude.
 
Well I had fenderwells too on the same car, hated the tire rubbing issues, the flanges were a little chesey they leaked etc. Looked cool, were much easier to put on, but i think now that these are on they are a better header, just cost a lot more and were a real B to install for me. I think a 904 and no PS would have made it much easier though.

my 2 cents. Thanks for the input !
 
Originally Posted by dart4forte
Well guys, I can always count on constructive opinions from members on this site. For everyone's information I took the cost of the headers and the starter off the TTI web site. It's neither here nor there to me what the Spitfires or the Dougs cost. They are for sale with the starter. If you don't agree with what I'm asking so be it. I'll bet you guys would be falling all over yourselves to get to your keyboard if I was asking $200....

when did you list these for sale, i thought you were just showing a stater option to solve a fitment problem
 
where did this come from? you listed this under Early A Body Discussions, and nowhere in the post did you say what you were asking. sorry if im misreading what youre saying, but from my point of reading it, you come off a little rude.


I am responding to the two comments pertaininmg to the cost. Maybe I mis-read their comments since I have these headers for sale on another post. I merely offered a alternative to the starter issue and TTI's, I wasn't soliciting comments regarding the price.
 
Originally Posted by dart4forte
Well guys, I can always count on constructive opinions from members on this site. For everyone's information I took the cost of the headers and the starter off the TTI web site. It's neither here nor there to me what the Spitfires or the Dougs cost. They are for sale with the starter. If you don't agree with what I'm asking so be it. I'll bet you guys would be falling all over yourselves to get to your keyboard if I was asking $200....

when did you list these for sale, i thought you were just showing a stater option to solve a fitment problem

Maybe a mis-read on my part on comments pertaining to the cost of the TTI's. I have a set for sale on another post and my read was that they were commenting toward what I was asking for the headers. If anyone is offended I offer my appoligies...... Group Hug!!
 
My comments have nothing to do with anybody wanting to sell any brand of headers, but rather to the fact, that for a street driven Early A-Body,
the costs and amount of work needed to make them work,
to Me; Headers are over rated, especially on a Street driven car.

Why spend up to $1,000. plus for 15hp??

In an exhaust thread a while back, I posted in,
I think it was Mopar muscle magazine did a header test,
on a 300hp engine, that shows that the headers were
not worth a ton of HP.

Of course if the engine your using
is 450 hp, and your mostly drag racing, then an extra 15 hp is worth
a bit of effort, when you want that last 1mph in the 1/4 mile. :)





Maybe a mis-read on my part on comments pertaining to the cost of the TTI's. I have a set for sale on another post and my read was that they were commenting toward what I was asking for the headers. If anyone is offended I offer my appoligies...... Group Hug!!
 
Hey caveman, nice ride!!

My comments have nothing to do with anybody wanting to sell any brand of headers, but rather to the fact, that for a street driven Early A-Body,
the costs and amount of work needed to make them work,
to Me; Headers are over rated, especially on a Street driven car.

Why spend up to $1,000. plus for 15hp??

In an exhaust thread a while back, I posted in,
I think it was Mopar muscle magazine did a header test,
on a 300hp engine, that shows that the headers were
not worth a ton of HP.

Of course if the engine your using
is 450 hp, and your mostly drag racing, then an extra 15 hp is worth
a bit of effort, when you want that last 1mph in the 1/4 mile. :)
 
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