Help me build my SB Stroker
Well if the 360 block is the block you want to use, OK. The 340 has a larger bore to start with. Less labor in going larger.
• 1971 Model 360 block @ standard bore – It has rust in one cylinder but I am thinking that it will clean up at .060 over. Since these are supposed to be thick walled blocks, I was thinking about using .030 over 340 pistons at 4.070. I will use whatever the minimal clean up takes. If I go to 4.070 I will have it sonic tested.
• MP cast 360 crank
• Eagle H beam rods
• Edelbrock Heads. These heads have had major porting done to them. I do not know what they flow but I was told 290cfm on the intake at .600 lift. I would like to have them flowed. Do we have any members that have a machine shop that can flow heads?
Thick wall blocks seem to be a myth. Later year blocks have been sonic check to equal thickness.
The MP 360 crank is good foder to sell for cash to roll over into the stroker.
H beems should do fine. I beems are better.
BJR racing (Web site and contact info in my sig.) is a head porter for many many years and has a flow bench.
• Flat tops or dish pistons and why?
• What brand would you recommend?
• What static Compression ratio would you shoot for?
I myself would look to flat tops if the ratio doesn't climb over 11-1 with the aluminum heads which is about the limit for pump gas. Like you said, cam and overlap of cam can allow more ratio, but in general, 11-1 is a safe max limit that will use 93 octane for your street stomper.
Brandwise, there is a slew of makers that all have a good reputation. A way to look at pistons is weight. Less the better!
I would love to run a hydraulic roller cam but due to the cost of lifter and the cam, I will probably be limited to a hydraulic flat tapped or solid.
• For a 408-416 ish cubic inch STREET motor, what cam would you recommend?
As for intake and carb, I was thinking of RPM Air Gap and 950HP Holley. For headers, I am assuming that the best I can do are TTI steps?
Give me your opinions on this build and any info on my questions above…..
Shy of a custom cam, I would simply look for a high rate lifting ramp cam ethier from Comp's extreme hi-lift series or Lunati's selection.
Clickables below;
http://lunaticams.com/
http://compcams.com/DefaultWide.asp
Once you know what the head flows and where it stalls, look for a cam that has the most lift your heads can use before stall. (Also in the duration, aka, powerband you'll be operating/driving in.)
(Though it is possible to use a larger cam lift than the head flows well, this may not be the best ave. to take for the street and valve spring considerations. Long life and ease of instalation and use. Etc..... on your street car engine.)
I'll agree on the intake and carb for street use. I do beileve the tti's are best in an A body car in the area you described. 2-1/2 exhaust pipe is the min. I would consider. A 3 inch system will free up the top end power well.
Thanks in advance……
No problem!