soda blasting
Here are a few things you need to know about soda blasting. The paint manufacturer's (namely PPG) will not warranty their paints with this media. Although they will secretely tell you it is one of the best ways to do it. The surface as to be neutralized after it has been soda blasted becuase it is a basic pH material and can have effects on paint. Neutralizing the soda is easy. After blowing the car out with compressed air you should use a vinegar and water based solution to spray and wipe the car down with. Then the car is ready for epoxy or etch. Epoxy is the best!!! It is the only waterproof sealer. Etching primer is old-school.
I got my car done for $1200 about 2 months ago. This is a little bit more but California charges an environmental waste fee of about $400. The shop that I use goes beyond just soda blasting the car. They guarantee their work and go the extra mile by neutralizing the soda, and then they blast the car a second time with garnet stone media to help the metal grab onto the epoxy. The finish is very smooth with soda only.
I had my car epoxied at the shop with 2-3 coats of Valspar epoxy (very good stuff) This cost me an extra $800 but it was well worth it since I am not up and running yet for painting. This way the car is sealed and I can take my time and not worry about flash rust or any of that. Here are the pictures of it with black epoxy. I highly recommmend this method. It saves tons of time and is friendly on the environment despite the California environmental cronies.
For rust issues they will have to use a more agressive media. As far as the windows. Make sure they are masked off because the the soda can haze the glass. Most reputible shops will not risk damaging window because they are hard/impossible to replace in some old cars.
Hope this information helps
Here are a few things you need to know about soda blasting. The paint manufacturer's (namely PPG) will not warranty their paints with this media. Although they will secretely tell you it is one of the best ways to do it. The surface as to be neutralized after it has been soda blasted becuase it is a basic pH material and can have effects on paint. Neutralizing the soda is easy. After blowing the car out with compressed air you should use a vinegar and water based solution to spray and wipe the car down with. Then the car is ready for epoxy or etch. Epoxy is the best!!! It is the only waterproof sealer. Etching primer is old-school.
I got my car done for $1200 about 2 months ago. This is a little bit more but California charges an environmental waste fee of about $400. The shop that I use goes beyond just soda blasting the car. They guarantee their work and go the extra mile by neutralizing the soda, and then they blast the car a second time with garnet stone media to help the metal grab onto the epoxy. The finish is very smooth with soda only.
I had my car epoxied at the shop with 2-3 coats of Valspar epoxy (very good stuff) This cost me an extra $800 but it was well worth it since I am not up and running yet for painting. This way the car is sealed and I can take my time and not worry about flash rust or any of that. Here are the pictures of it with black epoxy. I highly recommmend this method. It saves tons of time and is friendly on the environment despite the California environmental cronies.
For rust issues they will have to use a more agressive media. As far as the windows. Make sure they are masked off because the the soda can haze the glass. Most reputible shops will not risk damaging window because they are hard/impossible to replace in some old cars.
Hope this information helps
