Basic door lock keying 101
I'm not getting into codes or cut depths here. It is a simple eyeball measure and trial and error that almost anyone can do. It does require some spare parts and is why you shouild hang on to your old lock cylinders or pocket a few as you wander through the junk yard.
First you must remove the cover with a hobby knife or similar thin steel object.
What lies underneath are the lock pins, follower pins and springs.
The basics of the lock cylinder is to line up the divide between the lock pins and follower pins in the same plane as the lock cylinder to housing surface. It lies along the line shown with the key and pins below.
You will notice the depth of key cut requires a corresponding length of follower pin. You can individually try pins in each location but remember! Without a lock pin and spring on top of the follower pin you will not know for sure if you have the right combination. First try without a lock pin and spring to see if the cylinder will turn. If it does not turn the pin is too long, if it does the pin may be correct or too short. Now drop in the lock pin and spring and hold them down with a finger while trying to turn the key again. If it turns you have the right parts (probably) if it does not turn your follower pin is too short. I said probably on parts because you will notice that short followers use long lock pins and vice-versa. Repeat this proceedure for each pin location and set them aside marked as to which hole they work in. After all pin and follower locations have been solved put them all in and cover the springs with a finger and try the key again before snapping the cover back on. If you just don't have a pin that fits a location or two it is ok to leave that hole empty. The lock will still work but just be a little easier to pick.
I'm not getting into codes or cut depths here. It is a simple eyeball measure and trial and error that almost anyone can do. It does require some spare parts and is why you shouild hang on to your old lock cylinders or pocket a few as you wander through the junk yard.
First you must remove the cover with a hobby knife or similar thin steel object.
What lies underneath are the lock pins, follower pins and springs.
The basics of the lock cylinder is to line up the divide between the lock pins and follower pins in the same plane as the lock cylinder to housing surface. It lies along the line shown with the key and pins below.
You will notice the depth of key cut requires a corresponding length of follower pin. You can individually try pins in each location but remember! Without a lock pin and spring on top of the follower pin you will not know for sure if you have the right combination. First try without a lock pin and spring to see if the cylinder will turn. If it does not turn the pin is too long, if it does the pin may be correct or too short. Now drop in the lock pin and spring and hold them down with a finger while trying to turn the key again. If it turns you have the right parts (probably) if it does not turn your follower pin is too short. I said probably on parts because you will notice that short followers use long lock pins and vice-versa. Repeat this proceedure for each pin location and set them aside marked as to which hole they work in. After all pin and follower locations have been solved put them all in and cover the springs with a finger and try the key again before snapping the cover back on. If you just don't have a pin that fits a location or two it is ok to leave that hole empty. The lock will still work but just be a little easier to pick.