Ladder bar w/floater or Caltracs

It's not cheap to have a chassis done right but, its far more expensive to replace the driver and with the speeds your car is already capable of, safety should be very important. 10.50 was my goal for cost and rookie driver comfort considerations, but you're already beyond that. When I built my car I decided that I'd be money ahead by doing things once and doing them right, with 10.50's in mind.
Ladder bars will make your car pitch happy, guaranteed!! The first motion a ladder bar makes is to lift the mounting point straight up. My car was not as powered up(10.70's)as yours and would lift the frontend 3 feet before moving forward much. Even with a Moroso 7.60 front tire redligting on a .5 pro tree was a problem.
Having spent the money on power that you obviously have, I'd say it's time to do some chassis work(read 4 link) to keep the driver safe and happy. A 4 links first reaction, when the driveshaft turns the gears, is to move the chassis mounts forward, making it more efficient and the links are near infinitely adjustable, making it capable of attaining safer(no monkey business) settings. With a 4 link backhalved car you'll be able run a 14x32 tire and almost eliminate tire spin from your dial-in guesstimates.
A good chassis under that car and she'll be running 9's and thats a major step in the minds of the rules makers and engineers at NHRA.