non body man needs help

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70swgr

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Hey guys (and gals), I think I might be messing up. I started sanding the body on my swgr to see just how bad it was and before knew it I had the whole drivers side and most of the roof down to bare metal. It stayed like that for several days before I was able to rattle can some primer to cover it up. Now I can brown colored spots showing up in some places. I went to a local auto paint supply store (before I noticed any spots) and got everything they said I would need; etching primer, epoxy primer, all reducers and hardeners to go with them, filler, basically everything but the top coat. I only used the spray cans to cover the bare metal to prevent rust. The car has been in the garage from the beginning, however, the door would get left open and I guess moisture to to it. what do I need to do to correct/prevent any problems down the road. My plan was to remove spray can primer as I work around the car. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreiciated since this is my first attempt at any real body work. Thanks in advance, Rick
 
Thank you. I will post some pics as soon as I can get some decent ones.
 
I will need to leave car in primer as i am very slow on body work. So I appoligize for what might sound dumb questions, but what should i cover the bare metal with before i can get to it to do the body work if the etch primer has to be coverd within a certain time frame.
 
A couple comments, not a lot of good products come in rattle cans especially if it's the cheap laquer based stuff, there isn't any hardner so it isn't very durable for one thing. The other comment is you don't need etching primer and epoxy, one or the other, preferably epoxy as it's zinc based so it helps inhibit rust. Not too many people use etch anymore but there isn't anything wring with it either, just more old school.
 
Forgot to add, if you're leaving it in primer then epoxy is definitely the way to go, it isn't water soluable like other primers.
 
i was told by the paint supply store to use the etch over bare metal and the epoxy would be the final coat under the top coat. So can I cover bare metal with the epoxy?
 
here are a few pics to show what i'm working with.
 
I didn't see the pics but yes epoxy over bare metal is fine, better than fine actually, desirable. You can use it as a sealer later on as well and you can also do your filler work over it or under it, either is fine.
 
I agree with Rob, although we use etching primer at my shop sometimes, and my Boss actually prefers to uses a DTM (direct to metal ) 2K high build primer, If I had my choice, I would skip the etch and shoot the bare metal with epoxy.

Then when your ready you can lay 3 or 4 coats of 2k High build to block it out. Dont worry if you cant get back to it right away after shooting the 2K. Its better to let the primer and filler sit a while any way. This way it has time to shrink before your paint.

When all your body work and blocking is finished then you can reduce the epoxy and shoot it as a sealer but you need to lay the paint with in a certain time frame from sealing.
 
sorry here are the pics i ran into some problems. hopefully i have better luck this time.

drivers side.jpg


drivers side floor.jpg


engine.jpg


interior.jpg


little rust i ran into.jpg


primer.jpg


trunk is good.jpg


when i bought it.JPG
 
Doesn't look bad at all, nice project really, just be patient and it'll all work out :-D
 
Looks like a nice start. Dont feel bad if it takes awhile. I work in a resto shop and my car has looked the same since last Feb.

016.jpg
 
Forgot to add, if you're leaving it in primer then epoxy is definitely the way to go, it isn't water soluable like other primers.

Yes Take It To Bare Metal Then Epoxy It. Do All Your Bodywork Between Primer And Epoxy. This Is The Only Way To Go. Just Ask Snake. My Brother Just Finished His Car. And He Has Been Doing This For 35 Years So. Always Bare Metal Then Epoxy Then Welding Then More Epoxy Then Body Work Then High Build Primer Tinted To The Color That Your Car Is Going To Be. Then Putty The More High Build The More Putty Then More High Build Then Block Sand Till You Can.t Seem To Do It Anymore. Then Do It Some More. Take Your Time. After The Epoxy Is On You Can Take Your Time Without Anything Bleeding Threw. Nice Car By The Way. Good Luck.
 
thanks for all the info. my 15 yo son had to post pics for me. I'm still in the stone age. lol.
 
As a first timer, the mistake I made was stripping the whole car before I began the body work. It took about a year before I got primer on it. fortunately the car was garaged (in Northern California), but even so, I would still get little spots of rust occasionally, but no problem if I nipped it in the bud.
My advise: DO ONE PANEL AT A TIME. And take your time if you can, the results will be worth it! And above all --have fun.

cuda 2005-7.jpg


Barracuda 008 (2).jpg


Barracuda 038 (2).jpg
 
Wow, what a nice fish Clifftt. Just checkin out all the nice rides on this forum keeps me inspired, and all the info should keep me on the right path. We were lucky today, it was in the 60s but that all ends tonight with rain and 30s to 40s for rest of week. Guess I'll work on int. or mechnicals. Thanks again for all the info. Rick
 
I agree with what was mentioned above. I know I am a little late to post on this topic. Take the car.... or sections of the car to bare metal and epoxy prime it. No need for etch. At the body shop where I work, we just switched from German based Glasurit paint to Dupont based Spies Heckler. For about a month we had noless than 4 paint reps working with out painters. I spent a lot of time with the Dupont reps asking MANY questions on their recomendations on the '70 Superbird that I am restoring. Everyone of them said the same thing about not using etch. Plus, when you use epoxy, you can work your body filler on top of it. You do not have to take it back to metal like you would with every other primer. As of today, Epoxy is the best thing to can get.

Hope this helps a little more.

Justin
"CornDog"
 
I actually like the epoxy primer to set for a while before sanding, seems to clog less. Work an area prime, go to next area, repeat, then go back to where you started to do bodywork...
 
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