young gun engine build help

You've obviously got some background in racing, which is cool. The support of your family is even better. IMO, you're kinda going backwards tho. You need a place for that engine to sit... So don't bother with a motor yet. Running 10s means at minimum of a 10pt cage, and running a stick, IMO you should be replacing the rear suspension. You'll need a dana 60, plus the fuel system, plus the electrical system. The factory stuff won't work for the intended times. If the car is rust free, have the frame reinforced and the cage installed, I would remove the inner wells and run bars out to the front of tha frame rails. I'd mini-tub the rear and run the splayed 4 link setup. It's lighter and more tunable than leaf spring based setups and you need to buy everything new anyway. You'll need the rear axle on hand to set up the suspension. So I'd order the Dana first. Once the chassis work is done, get the car painted. Then you can start thinking about the fuel and electrical systems because you'll have to design in what you need for additional circuits and larger wires for the battery relocation and fans/pumps/etc. Then there's the safety equipment you'll need. Seat belts, shut off switch, SFI approved flywheel and blowshield, and balancer. Then theres the brakes... you can order your reear with brakes or none. For a car capable of the speeds and performance you're talking, I would be looking more at disc in the rear, plus the largest factory discs in the front, and obviously no power assist. Once the rest of the car is thought out and mostly done, then you can sweat the engine. You wont have a street car capable of 10s, with a big block, at 3000lbs. With the cage and chassis stuff, plus the additional stuff, if you can get it lighter than 3300 without you in it, I'd be very impressed. BTW, as a street drivien car, don't use fiberglass doors. You cant do anything about the person that hits you, and glass doors will be really bad even with good door bars as part of the cage.